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Lead jams are not as common as they once were. This is due in part to better quality pencils as well as better quality lead. They also occur more readily in the smaller diameter lead sizes, mainly the 0.3 mm size. Despite this some pencil manufacturers have decided to leave clean out rods out out their pencils. Ohto is not one of them. So if you do experience a lead jam and have to clear the lead sleeve you'll have the proper tool to do the job. When lead jams do occur they can stop up a pencil instantly and the only thing that will get it working again is to clear the jam.
To clear a lead jam from the PM-1503S (and any other 1500S series pencil) follow these simple instructions. First remove the push button to expose the eraser. Remove the eraser and beneath it will be a very small diameter length of wire called a clean out rod. Keep the eraser and clean out rod out but replace the push button before proceeding or else you'll dump the lead from the pencil! Next rotate the grip counter clockwise, lowering the grip and hiding the lead sleeve (see fig. 2).
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at this point as the end cap is under spring tension from a large spring housed inside the grip. This spring is what allows the grip to stop at any point in its length of travel and maintain its position. To remove the end cap tightly grasp the grip in one hand while grasping the end cap in the other and twist the end cap counter clockwise to unscrew it from the grip. Make sure that you do not lose the grip spring (see fig. 3)! The grip spring may stay in the grip or come out with the end cap, either way remove it and secure it and the end cap somewhere safe for a short period (see fig. 3A).
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At this stage any further handling of the pencil proper will probably cause changes in the setting for the max. lead length per click as the tension has been removed from the tubular wheel that controls the setting. Secure the rest of the pencil in a safe place.
Next, take the lead sleeve and place it large end down on a hard surface like a desk or counter top. Hold it
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Should you find that the unlikely has happened and the lead retainer has become dislodged, click on this link to find out how to replace it.
Should all go well, and it should, retrieve all the pencil parts and reassemble the pencil simply by reversing the steps for disassembly. Once assembled the pencil should now be in working order. You may have to reset the amount of lead exposed per click as the disassembly and reassembly procedures may have disturbed this setting.
For the 2 older models that I have mentioned in this article the procedure will be very much the same with the following exceptions: There is a tubular wheel that controls the max. length lead sleeve espouser in the end cap of the 2 pencils along with a spring, visible through the opening in the end cap. Use caution when removing the end cap as the spring in the end cap slides inside the spring that is inside the grip. The 2 springs can become entangled, pulling the smaller spring from the end cap. It could therefore get lost causing the lead sleeve espouser function to become non functional. This part of the pencil will not work without the spring; The lead sleeve is not under spring tension as in the newest model and does not have as wide a base. Take extra care when pushing the clean out rod into the mouth of the lead sleeve as the lead sleeve can easily move and the thin wire of the clean out rod easily punctures skin.
For the full line of Ohto Drafting Pencils please visit our friends at JetPens.com.
9 comments:
Did you suss this all out yourself or is it included in some instructions by Ohto. $10 says you, not Ohto, but i just wanted to check.
Not Ohto, me! I've been using drafting pencils for years and I have a habit of taking a new one apart, as far as I can go with it, as soon as I get it. Since I use 0.3 mm pencils almost exclusively I learned very quickly what the little metal rod beneath the eraser was for! Getting the lead sleeve off a Super Promecha is such a daunting task to the uninitiated I though I'd let people know just how to do it. Besides, it was fun!
This was so very helpful in getting the thing apart. I thought the point end came off, I just didn't want to break it, mine was on so tight I had to use some pliers to grip it and get it off. Must be an old version cause mine does not have the rubber on the side and it does have the tip length restrictor. I had a piece of led jammed *perpendicular* in the small area right before the pipe on the inside. Thing had been jammed for months, but I knew I would figure it out some day. Thanks for reminding me and I am glad it works again!
I am so glad that my post helped you out! This is what it's all about! Posting stuff that others find useful and helpful. Makes my day! Thanks!
Hi Old Geezer!
I have a PM-1005S (0.5) that has the features you describe above.
Unfortuantely it rolled off my desk and hit the floor hard such that the shaft (tip) where the lead comes out from is bent. AAHHHH!
So now the lead does not dispense. And I am really ticked since I loved this pencil and bought it during a trip to Japan. Do you know where I can get a repalcement end? Or even better how to fix the bend? I tried with a pair of pliers and am nervous about snapping or crushing it
Al Khwaja Shoot me an email at theoldgeezer@live.com and I'll email you a contact at Ohto who may be able to help you obtain a replacement lead sleeve unit.
Hey. Thanks for the help. Ive sent you an email
Thanks for the very thorough review. I have 7 silver rotring 600s I ordered a couple years ago for $25. I loved them and thought I would never use another pencil. I saw this review and ordered a few.
I have to say that this is a very different pencil, but I like this pencil very much. I still prefer the 600, but I like not stabbing myself and not bending the nib like I do occasionally with the 1500P. It will get some use, particularly if I am wearing pockets. While putting a hole through my finger or pants is not desirable, putting a rotring in your breast pocket is kind of like putting a live stingray in it.
Fantastic guide!! thank you
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