tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42009788586959862792024-03-14T18:30:42.525-04:00Pens And PencilsMy Thoughts On My ObsessionThe Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.comBlogger132125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-14715708737468949692015-07-10T19:45:00.000-04:002015-07-13T07:54:22.179-04:00Pentel Graph PMG vs. Pentel Graph PMG Import<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBCR6ZC1r-mEWjz6dVKXVrg53lwKT8gVNqJoZeW0pbhTNn1MWLxGu6vAgNtsMmk0_i2LO1qfL76ikmVqkNvIPp7nY7t35a843WWXRDITImTKBOzbKtaCHn2mu859K8G015JOTnAX_S4Wk/s1600/PMG+x+two.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBCR6ZC1r-mEWjz6dVKXVrg53lwKT8gVNqJoZeW0pbhTNn1MWLxGu6vAgNtsMmk0_i2LO1qfL76ikmVqkNvIPp7nY7t35a843WWXRDITImTKBOzbKtaCHn2mu859K8G015JOTnAX_S4Wk/s400/PMG+x+two.bmp" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pentel Graph PMG (rear) and Pentel Graph PMG Import (front)</td></tr>
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I've had a few bloggers ask if they could submit a review of something and I've always told them OK but I'd have to screen it first and if I found anything objectionable that I'd either edit the review or not post it. I have yet to have a published review from another blogger. But here's a twist, George, from the blog, "My Supply Room" doesn't want me to publish one of his posts, He wants me to review one of his pencils that he wants reviewed! You see George doesn't review anything. He just has a lot of pens and pencils (and I do mean <strong>a lot</strong>) which he shares with the world by taking pictures of his treasures and posting them.<br />
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For some reason George, an old geezer like me, likes my blog and wants me to do a review of his Pentel Graph PMG "Import" Pencil.. Just why Pentel decided to "Import" (actually export) a pencil to non-Asian population I haven't a clue. It may have been an attempt to test the waters in the US and European markets, or one of a thousand different reasons.<br />
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You would expect that 2 pencils that look so much alike as these two do, to be clones of one another. However this is not the case with these 2 PMG pencils. At a quick glance one would think that they are indeed the same pencil. However there are some subtle differences. For instance the non-import model (mine) is 5 mm longer than George's pencil. The imprinting is different. On mine it reads "<em>0.3mm</em> PMG". On George's pencil it reads "<em>0.3m/m"</em>. The concentric rings that make up the grip area are finer on my pencil than on George's. Finally the most obvious difference is the lead grade indicator. On George's pencil it is gold colored and a bit thicker than mine, which is orange. Both have the same pocket clip. Point of note here, George's PMG came in a gift box with the pocket clip unattached. Mine came as is in a disposable plastic sheath. <br />
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Internally they differ considerably. They disassemble identically until one gets to the disassembled pencil. Mine (top in the above pic. which for the sake of my fingers and my sanity I will refer to from now on as the PMG and George's as the Import) has a white plastic insert where the import has a black one. Interesting point here is that the lead reservoir and clutch mechanism is captured in the Import but in the PMG it slides almost completely out before stopping short. The PMG has a self contained clutch that does not need any other part of the pencil in order to operate. The Import however requires the tip be in place before it will release any lead. The actual push button has a long clean out rod attached to it. In the PMG there is a half circle in the rod close to the plastic push button. On the Import the COR is straight.<br />
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The 4 remaining parts are the tip, the LGI cover, the top cap and the point shield. The point shields are the only parts that are identical. The tips are internally different which is why they will not work when swapped. The LGI cover on the Import is thicker than the one on the PMG and is a different color. Due to the difference in threads the top caps do not interchange. These differences can be explained by the fact that these 2 pencils could have been built at different times with a design change later bringing them both up to the same specs. Or they were purposely designed to be different for some unknown reason. Whichever it is I prefer the PMG simply because I believe it is the newer of the 2 designs. <br />
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Stats. Everyone wants the stats. What would the world of pens and pencils be without the stats?... Do you know how laborious and time consuming it is to collect the stats?... Ah, it's nothing, really! I've either made or bought all the equipment I need to collect them. And though a little boring it's relatively painless and doesn't take long... "What are you doing?..." I'm just telling my readers that it's easy to take the stats... "You're giving away part of your status as a reviewer! The readers are supposed to think that a review is hard to do..." Eh, why? And who are you anyway... "I'm, eh, well that doesn't matter..." And neither do you! So, goodbye!... "But!..." I said GOODBYE!<br />
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I tell you, the nerve of some figments... The PMG is 146 mm long as opposed to the Imports 141 mm. Both bodies are 8 mm in diameter and both grip diameters taper from 8 mm to 7 mm. The tips are also the same length at 19 mm. However the grip lengths differ: the PMG measures 25 mm while the Import measures 23.5 mm. The balance point of the Import is 68 mm to the tip, making the Import a shade top heavy. The PMG measured 73 mm, exactly in the pencils middle! So the balance is neutral. A rare thing indeed. The Import weights 11.6 grams, making it the heavyweight in this comparison as the PMG weighs only 11.39 grams. So what do all these stats mean? Not much, unless you need to know how the pencil may feel and perform when you use it. Often pencils with similar stats feel and perform the same. So knowing the stats of a pencil can help you compare pencils before you try them.<br />
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The pencils disassemble in the same way. To clear a lead jam first remove the point shield from the top of the pencil and set it aside. Next unscrew the top cap, while holding the LGI in place, and set it aside. Next remove the LGI and set it aside. Next remove the lead from the lead reservoir so you won't spill it out while trying to juggle the pencil so as not to dump the lead (which will happen) and set it aside. Next remove the tip. Place the tip on a flat surface lead sleeve pointing up. Use the Clean Out Rod on the end of the push button to clear the lead jam by easily pushing it through the lead sleeve until it stops. Remove the COR <em>slowly </em>stopping about midway through. You should feel a slight resistance when pushing in and pulling out the COR. Release the push button. It should stay put. If it slides back down the LS then you are in trouble. Remove the COR then slowly lift the tip from the table top and check what is beneath it. If all you see is a short piece of lead and some lead <em>dust Then things are fine. If you see a small black "top hat" looking piece of rubber, then you have dislodged the Lead retainer. See "All jammed UP" at the head of this blog.</em> Reassembly is the opposite of the disassembly.<br />
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Other useful stats about the pencils are it takes 2 clicks to extend lead from the PMG and 3 from the Import to produce enough lead from the Import. The Import is quieter than the PGM but there is more resistance to the push button making it harder to press. Both have cavernous lead reservoirs but resist filling them up. Most pencils work best with about a dozen or so pieces of lead. The larger the lead diameter the fewer the number of leads it will hold. And finally you may have noticed that neither pencil has an eraser. instead they have a clean out rod beneath the push button. A great idea! To bad Pentel didn't feature this on the rest of their pencils. <br />
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As far as how they write, well...The PMG has a neutral balance point. This means that the pencil stays in my hand a lot easier that the Import. The pencil <em>feels</em> lighter than the Import by more than the .21g difference between the two. I like the way it feels and writes. That is the pencil does not fight me, which allows for a lot of fatigue free use. The Import is bottom heavy and it feels heavier than the .21g difference between them. But lets face it, the differences are not that dramatic. To the average user, there will not be that much, if any differences, but to someone like me, a pen and pencil geek, we can tell the difference, and the difference matters.<br />
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The Import, to me, is feels bottom heavy and it feels heavier than the PMG. It's controllable, in part,<br />
due to it being bottom heavy. The PMG, on the other hand, feels light and easy to control. The courser rings on the grip area of the Import feel better to me though than the finer rings on the PMG. I have a tendency to rotate the pencil when I write, normally, with other, more standard pencils the pocket clip rarely gets in the way because it is placed higher up the pencil that the pocket clip on the PMG and the Import. These pocket clips hit my hand right at the web and get in my way. So rotating the pencils causes the pocket clip to irritate the web of my hand. Yes, I could remove the pocket clip, but then I could not carry the pencil in my shirt pocket nor make use of the tip protector.<br />
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The tip protector is a unique item. It is an unpolished cone of punched sheet metal. I am assuming that the crudeness of the surface of the cone is for easy gripping. The surface is exceptionally suited for this. If it were chromed or polished then one would have a hard time removing it as it snaps in place rather strongly. The idea behind the cone is to protect the tip of the pencil from sticking the user when the pencil is carried in the breast pocket. Manufacturers of drafting and mechanical pencils have been trying just about every way possible to provide this protection. I can see the reasoning behind it, but to me it's a mute point as I use a pocket protector. In it I keep a 0.3 mm pencil, a refillable stick eraser, a ballpoint pen with a touch screen pad, a click type fine point gel pen, affine point permanent marker a twin tipped screwdriver and a small expendable magnet. I used to carry an X-Acto knife as well but I lost it. My lovely wife calls it my "Geek Stuff:.<br />
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The Import seems to be a bit weighty and wants to slip out of my hand if I loosen my grip in the slightest. Not so much the PMG, which seems to require a little more looseness before slipping away from me. The Import also feels heavier than the PMG, while it is heavier by a few tenths of a gram, it feels much heavier. I think this is due in part to it's balancing point, which is well below center. Combined with it's heavier the weight causes the pencil to feel heavier. Either that or I'm as crazy as a Loon! Which is quite possible.<br />
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Bottom line is I like the PMG over the Import for the above reason as well as the fact that it just seems to fit me better than the Import. However as a collector I would very much like to be able to talk George out of his Import as they, along with the entire series, are no longer made and have become very rare. This is due in part to the probable fact that fewer Imports were produced than the PMG and that collectors are holding onto them, driving up the value. Whether you would like the Import or the PMG you will have to go to places like eBay in order to find them. The PMG will be considerably less than the Import and much easier to find.<br />
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In fact the entire series of Graph, Slimline pencils are now out of production. One, the PG7, has been out of production since the 70's while the others have been out of production since the late 90's and early 2000's and some have become very rare and hard to find like the PG7. One the original Graph Pencil, in 0.5 mm was made apparently only in 1969. It is a little different in appearance than the others and is probably the rarest and most expensive. The others in the series are the PG2 0.2 mm, PMG, 0.3 mm, PG4, 0.4 mm, PG5, 0.5 mm and the PG7, 0.7 mm. There is no 0.9 mm. To see pictures of the entire series follow this link to the page on the web site <a href="http://leadholder.com/lh-thin-pentel-graph.html#pmg" target="_blank">"Leadholder"</a>. Thanks to Dennis B. Smith for the information on his site, "Leadholder".<br />
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And of course much thanks to George of "My Supply Room" for the loan of the Import and the original idea of reviewing it. Hang in there, George.The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-15650818064009905132015-04-28T22:36:00.000-04:002015-04-28T22:36:38.213-04:00Ohto Promate PM-703<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhis3dcyc1fyHofbT3X2QURg3n5fmdbnGbicmkiTggz5fF-gd5g9wor2p-9s2ScYEs0GdlALB5WeBwdVZyuamsZtWLvkM9euVyGrM9WuXK7l-5Jf88_wROTr3XJ7HDkdD-zRkZ6S63i46k/s1600/Promate+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhis3dcyc1fyHofbT3X2QURg3n5fmdbnGbicmkiTggz5fF-gd5g9wor2p-9s2ScYEs0GdlALB5WeBwdVZyuamsZtWLvkM9euVyGrM9WuXK7l-5Jf88_wROTr3XJ7HDkdD-zRkZ6S63i46k/s1600/Promate+001.jpg" height="640" width="67" /></a>When I first saw the Ohto Promate I knew that I just had to have one. It has classic lines and to me looks like what a drafting pencil should look like. Long, straight, knurled grip, knurled lead grade indicator, straight tube push button and a nearly squared off tip with a long tube then the 4 mm lead sleeve. Classic. Just classic. But it's not unique in either looks or design. It has a round barrel while some others it may resemble have hexagon barrels. However it does have "sisters" in the world of drafting pencils. While I do not have a Berol RapiDesign 0.3 mm pencil, it has a very similar appearance only the LGI is between the grip and the barrel.<br />
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However there is one pencil that could be the Promate's twin, aside from not having a rubber coated plastic barrel. Instead the Alvin Draft/Matic DM03 has a plastic body. Otherwise they look identical, as shown by the side-by-side presentation in my post, <a href="http://onelonemanspensandpencils.blogspot.com/2009/01/two-of-kind.html" target="_blank">Two Of a Kind</a>. They even share limited interchangeability of parts! If it were not for a few internal differences the 2 pencils could have been produced in the same factory, even on the same machinery. But it's the differences that make the Ohto Promate it's own pencil and not a "clone".<br />
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The Ohto Promate id constructed of a plastic barrel covered in rubber, which happens to be black. There is a bright metal nut/spacer in the tube that the knurled chromed metal grip/tip screws to. The inner lead reservoir is a clear plastic and the clutch mechanism is housed in a white translucent plastic. There is a small spring that supplies the return force to the clutch mechanism that fits between the white housing and the nut spacer which has a short tube that fits inside the grip/tip. The lead reservoir does not come free of the pencil because the tube the eraser fits in is metal and fits over the lead reservoir. As the reservoir is pulled out the eraser holder hits the part of the nut/spacer inside the body tube. The push button cap is removed to show the eraser. The eraser is removed so the reservoir can be filled. Beneath the eraser is a clean-out-rod.<br />
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The appearance of the Promate is very attractive. Like I wrote above, very classic in design - the contrast of the flat black rubber coated barrel and the silver colored imprinting on the barrel as well as all the chrome plated exterior metal parts reminds me of a Black Tie Social Event, to which the Ohto Promate PM-703 would look right at home.<br />
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The pencil is 143 mm long and is 8 mm wide at the widest point, the spacer. The grip is 7mm wide and 31 mm long (excluding the tip and lead sleeve). The tip (including the lead sleeve) is 10 mm long. The balance point is 65 mm from the tip of the pencil. The pencil weighs 17.3 grams. For me the diameter of the pencil, is good. Not to chunky and not to skinny. Just right. The weight is good. It's a light weight pencil which helps make the writing experience that much more pleasant. The balance is below center making it top heavy, but even if I turn the pencil up side down I can not feel a difference in balance. The sharp knurling and the rubberized barrel work in concert to help me hold the pencil with minimal effort making the writing experience that much more pleasant. Add in HB grade lead and a good smooth writing surface and writing with the Ohto Promate feel almost effortless. I like this as I tend to have a heavy hand and for over 45 years I have been trying to train myself to have a light touch. Writing with 0.3 mm lead in a lightweight helps me to write with a light touch.<br />
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For those of you who like such details, it only takes 2 "clicks" to get enough lead out to write with. Thereafter a single "click" will advance enough lead as you continue to write or draw. With so little lead exposed there is very little "wobble" of the lead in the lead sleeve so lead breakage is held to a minimum. <br />
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The 2 drawbacks I can see with the pencil concerns the LGI at the top of the pencil. In bright light the silver on black letters and numerals are hard to see due to glare. They are better viewed in a shade or low light or indirect light. The chromed LGI housing is extremely loose. Just handling the pencil can cause the LGI to move enough to move off the initial setting. There doesn't seem to be any way of tightening the housing, so it's just something I have to get used to.<br />
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Despite the LGI problems, which are really minor, the Ohto Promate PM-703 is a very good example of a classic drafting pencil. However the Ohto Promate is no longer made, so if you want one you will have to do an Internet search to find one.The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-32018788415331360372015-03-20T03:54:00.000-04:002015-03-20T03:54:16.397-04:00The rOtring 500 0.3 mm in Black<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEDLJFBblL7DiLHWW200WDIfMpnjuYFG6ODrYytkOYYuhf-pKOXIeDOUV84G_4Zx7-GTULeeXry7e1wjl737Kk2a-IEoBPNA_xzSGt5bkoe2R-Ql0fHXgtS9Pu7T7nKCTjwlzAS_bcVA/s1600/rOtring+500+2+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyEDLJFBblL7DiLHWW200WDIfMpnjuYFG6ODrYytkOYYuhf-pKOXIeDOUV84G_4Zx7-GTULeeXry7e1wjl737Kk2a-IEoBPNA_xzSGt5bkoe2R-Ql0fHXgtS9Pu7T7nKCTjwlzAS_bcVA/s1600/rOtring+500+2+.jpg" height="640" width="95" /></a>The rOting 500 is the middle pencil between the 300 and the 600. While all 3 pencils share a similar appearance the 500 looks more like the 600 than the 300. In fact side by side there is only the designation on the side of the pencils and the shininess of the 500's plastic barrel that gives it away. That and the fact that the lettering on the LGI in the top end of the pencil is silver, on the 600 it's white and the rings between the red one are silver, not black. But at a glance or to the uninitiated it looks like a 600.<br />
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But when you take a look at the insides of each pencil they appear nothing alike. The 500 breaks down into 5 major components. The metal end cap/grip/lead sleeve. The body, which contains the 3 jawed clutch and ratcheting mechanism as well as the lead reservoir . And finally the eraser and the push button. The 600 breaks down into 5 major components as well, but very differently. The breaks down into the end cap/grip/lead sleeve. When you unscrew the end cap the 3-jawed clutch, ratcheting mechanism, lead reservoir, eraser and push button all follow. The interior must be unscrewed from the end cap/grip/lead sleeve next. The eraser and push button are the only remaining parts to remove.<br />
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The interior of the 500 is an integral part of the body. This is a simple design as the body is modeled to accept the mechanism. The down side to this type of design is that repairers can not be made to the interior of the mechanism. This is construction that I would have expected of the 300 as it is such a basic, inexpensive way to make a mechanical pencil. The 300 has a removable tip as the grip is made into the body. But it has a mechanism and lead reservoir that are piratically removable. Only the larger diameter metal tube on the end of the clear plastic reservoir prevents it from being fully removed. But I am sure that this can be overcome if repairs were needed.<br />
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The 600 is made entirely different than either the 300 or 500. It has both a metal body and metal tip/grip/lead sleeve. The 3-jawed clutch and the rest of the mechanism is metal surrounded by a white plastic fixture.. Even the lead reservoir is metal. But the 600 is a top of the line pencil and high quality construction should be expected. So since the 500 is a more expensive pencil than the 300 I would expect a better construction method. Even if it is less expensive than the 600 I still ecpected something closer to the 600's construction.<br />
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I will say this for the 500's construction. The design does give the pencil strength. Often the weak point of a plastic barreled drafting pencil is where the grip meets the body. Too much pressure during usage can over time stress this area to the point where it cracks and often breaks off completely. Most often than not this can not be repaired satisfactorily. The 500's design helps prevent this by being stronger at the joint because of the fact the mechanism is housed there.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcXnfbvSAtBgm7Okm2hq0EhQ3ZmnShd-Vod70OWo7d9U4VDmjhVC8GI1hW637UPN8N7c9hQFxP0AK2ToQYnTpZk5vhpEDJmDwhZpak8bveKlfBEk0jx6yN5M3xeYqvOfAL5tnwbbbTMGY/s1600/3+of+a+kind.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcXnfbvSAtBgm7Okm2hq0EhQ3ZmnShd-Vod70OWo7d9U4VDmjhVC8GI1hW637UPN8N7c9hQFxP0AK2ToQYnTpZk5vhpEDJmDwhZpak8bveKlfBEk0jx6yN5M3xeYqvOfAL5tnwbbbTMGY/s1600/3+of+a+kind.jpg" height="217" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top to Bottom: The 600, the 300 and the 500</td></tr>
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All that aside the rOting 500 is still a good pencil and a good choice for someone who wants a an intermediate level pencil. So on that note I offer you the stats. The over all length is 141 mm. The body diameter is 7.5 mm across the flats and 8 mm across the points. The grip is 7.5 mm in diameter and does not taper. The grip length is 30 mm and the tip length is 12 mm. The balance point is 68 mm from the tip making the 500 a tiny bit top heavy. The total weight is 13.4 grams. Aside from the lead sleeve and the 2 silver rings above and below the red ring at the LGI the pencil is entirely black with red lettering. The LGI is silver letters on a black background. The removable pocket clip has the rOting logo stamped into the upper portion. the closed push button has the lead size stamped on it's top. All in all a good looking light weight 0.3 mm drafting/writing pencil.<br />
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Some people prefer a pencil of a specific weight and balance point. But I seem to like a variety of weights and balance points. So I get along with a lot of different pencils. But the 500 is an almost happy median. It's not to skinny nor too fat. It's light weight which makes it easy to use all day. It doesn't try and go it's own way as some pencils do. The top heaviness of the 500 is not felt due, I think, to it's light weight. The pencil is not delicate either. 0.3 mm pencils have a tendency to break lead. This is caused by the lead not fitting the lead sleeve tight enough. The lead tends to wobble inside the lead sleeve so when in turning the pencil as you write the point of the lead catches the paper and digs in. The lead has too much room to move around so it flexes. When it flexes, it breaks. With the lead is held tight in the lead sleeve (and not over extended) it has not room to flex and so it tends not to break. This is a quality of every rOtring that I have as well as another high quality pencil, the German and Japanese versions of the Koh-I-Noor Rapidomatic. This comes as no surprise as rOtring once owned Koh-I-Noor.<br />
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Last words: The rOtring 500 is a well made, decent drafting pencil. It is a medium weight class drafting pencil. It has good balance and does not fight me when I write with it. It's diameter is, for me, just at the low end of what fits well in my hand. Both the plastic barrel and nicely knurled grip are good gripping surfaces. The pencil rests well in my fat little hands* and I can easily turn it as I write. The pocket clip is removable, so people who like to remove them from their pencils so the end of the clip doesn't dig into the web of their hand when the pencil is turned can do so. I collect the pencils I blog about so don't remove mine.<br />
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The 500 only comes in black. Maybe one day they will make them in silver, but I doubt it. The 500 is a handsome pencil in black, and black is slimming, but the problem that I have with black pencils is that they show up every piece of bust and lint that falls on them. Worse, the knurled metal grips catch the loose skin of the fingers, as well as dirt, dust and grime, and quickly begin to look grey. Using a <em>soft bristled</em> tooth brush and some soap and water can remove this but repeatedly doing this wears off the finish, points first. Then it looks even worse. This is why I like silver pencils or at least silver metal grips on colored plastic bodies.<br />
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So if you want a nice drafting pencil for under $20.00 for the 0.3 mm and under $15.00 for the 0.5 mm and 0.7 mm models then the rOtring 500 just may be the pencil that you are looking for.<br />
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The rOtring 500 is no longer made in 0.3 mm, just why I'm not sure, but while supplies last you can fined them on-line at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>.<br />
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(* I have slightly fatish hands, but this is not why I asterisked the word hands. The web of a persons hand can be measured from the crease at the base of the index finger to the base of the thumb. People like me who have a short web are said to have "small hands" while those whose web is longer are said to have "big hands". The placement on the thumb on the side of the hand determines the length of the hands web. My fingers are actually slightly longer than my lovely wife's, but because her thumb is a lot further down the side of her hand, closer to her wist, the web of her hand is longer. The length of the web of the hand does have an effect on how you hold a pencil and where the pocket clip hits your hand, if at all. So please bear this is in mind when considering the purchase of any pencil or pen.)The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-38728819860742033302015-03-15T02:57:00.000-04:002015-03-15T02:57:30.193-04:00Pentel Graph 1000 for Pro vs. Pentel Graph 1000 CS in 0.3 mm<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzLtAhScmgGbUfuL_M2B85A-fmqXoH9lNMiu8vv1xzZawPtwXA-lyUlq1-BOaIT0UU3e-Zu7UwGedZGdzs1ey0DxSu8QyxeBMHuySaIedsHRAygdHez8Rpm1wV_St8SM3oP2ALpk8dWvw/s1600/graph+1000+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzLtAhScmgGbUfuL_M2B85A-fmqXoH9lNMiu8vv1xzZawPtwXA-lyUlq1-BOaIT0UU3e-Zu7UwGedZGdzs1ey0DxSu8QyxeBMHuySaIedsHRAygdHez8Rpm1wV_St8SM3oP2ALpk8dWvw/s1600/graph+1000+003.jpg" height="640" width="124" /></a>Some years back I thought that I saw a pencil that looked just like a black Pentel Graph sell for over $100.00. It was in fact a Pentel. But it was so long ago that I can't find the thing on the Net. I was a bit surprised a short while later when I saw the Pentel Graph 1000 for Pro at <a href="http://jetpens.com/" target="_blank">jetpens.com </a>. I really liked the look of the pencil so eventually I bought one in 0.3 mm, my favorite lead size.<br />
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Apparently the pencil is extremely popular because Pentel began producing Limited Editions of the pencil in colors. Originally the series was produced in limited lead sizes. Unfortunately I was unable at the time to purchase one. Later they came out with another Limited Edition series, and again another Limited Edition series. I don't know the order in which they came, but there seems to have been a series in metallic colors with black accents, a series in pastel colors with chrome accents and a series of primary colors with chrome accents called the X Stein series. The latest Limited Edition series is the CS or Creator's Style series. This series comes in 3 colors for the 0.5 mm lead size and 2 colors for the 0.3 mm lead size.<br />
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The only difference between any of these pencils is their appearance. And the fact that not every series was made in all 5 lead sizes. So why make so may different configurations of the same pencil? Because we are a consumer world and we buy pretty things, even when we don't need them. Like me. I would like to have one 0.3 mm pencil from each series. I can find some of them on eBay and when funds come available, I shall purchase them (if they are still available) and I shall blog about them.<br />
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OK, enough philosophy. I am getting of my soap box and getting down to what you came here to read. My review of the Pentel Graph 1000 for Pro and the Pentel Graph 1000 CS, in 0.3 mm. Both pencils share the same stats, of course. They are made by the same methods and in the same factory with the same tools. The only real differences are cosmetic. So lets talk about the way they look, shall we?<br />
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The Pentel Graph 1000 for Pro, in all lead sizes, is all black with 3 exceptions. The push button end cap is a black cylinder covering colored lead grade indicator which has a narrow ring of color at the base and on the top there is a plug of color with the lead size stamped in white. The color indicator for the 0.3 mm for the Pro is brown. The LGI lettering is white against the brown. The third exception is of course the stainless steel lead sleeve. The lettering on the pencil is a light gray giving the pencil a ghostly appearance.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOiCngkZ4xC3YlmfrZURRnb1EmEkdWs7PrlNDCy7o5gJqaToLb12CCu-PP5dnsvt_ne5q0wAgDp7V02YcmsmHrqSHTomRq_kvBXiDGYNyV00x7uTYvVFGIiqkh9xwNSKiGY7gdpXGXx5s/s1600/cap+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOiCngkZ4xC3YlmfrZURRnb1EmEkdWs7PrlNDCy7o5gJqaToLb12CCu-PP5dnsvt_ne5q0wAgDp7V02YcmsmHrqSHTomRq_kvBXiDGYNyV00x7uTYvVFGIiqkh9xwNSKiGY7gdpXGXx5s/s1600/cap+005.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pushbuttons of the Pro and CS</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO6aiXQBPJlZ4geWeRTcZ1JwlpcPgOGNpbPVEPpG8Q6Y26l0yuzqf0_BGI156z3IXzIsMBX09NKytjPeUZt3COZn0RhAIuOtJEyIeHJr79RSE792iR1Vn1hBBYw3-P-KTHwNdKvQFqSA/s1600/cap+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO6aiXQBPJlZ4geWeRTcZ1JwlpcPgOGNpbPVEPpG8Q6Y26l0yuzqf0_BGI156z3IXzIsMBX09NKytjPeUZt3COZn0RhAIuOtJEyIeHJr79RSE792iR1Vn1hBBYw3-P-KTHwNdKvQFqSA/s1600/cap+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a>The bush button of the CS is the same as the cap for the Pro only the secondary color is white for the 0.3 mm The lettering is black. The lettering on the body is silver, standing out more than the Pro.<br />
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Both pencils have black upper bodies, but the CS looks a little shinier. The Pro has a black grip with 18 black obround rubber inserts. The CS has a satin chrome grip with the same 18 rubber inserts. The tip of the Pro is black with the lead sleeve of stainless steel. The tip of the CS is bright chrome with a stainless steel lead sleeve. The pocket clip of the Pro is black, the pocket clip on the CS is bright chrome. Both pencils are attractive in there own way. The Pro looks stealthy while the CS looks like it's going to a party.</div>
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Now for the stats. The stats are the same for both pencils. They are 147 mm long over all. The balance point is 73 mm from the tip of the pencils making the pencils perfectly balanced.They each weigh 11 grams making them light weights. The body diameter is 7.5 mm and the grip diameter of each pencil is 8 mm. The grips measure 37 mm in length and the tip (including the lead sleeve) measures 21 mm.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmOnEYO-WCbiQaV5Vl-Ei0y_za57QGzokmhfRn9zj_7-wELyCkXYBoHqgf7X-2N4dgvvuug7U0jsG3q1ydhTKRCd35ezzKAa17BLIPCGH4vl33zPhQ827vzcOL_cYiLIAqN3_P7wvKSk/s1600/graph+1000+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHmOnEYO-WCbiQaV5Vl-Ei0y_za57QGzokmhfRn9zj_7-wELyCkXYBoHqgf7X-2N4dgvvuug7U0jsG3q1ydhTKRCd35ezzKAa17BLIPCGH4vl33zPhQ827vzcOL_cYiLIAqN3_P7wvKSk/s1600/graph+1000+002.jpg" height="130" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Graph 1000 is easily broken down.</td></tr>
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The break down of the pencils is pretty much straight forward. Unscrew the tip, and slide off the grip, remove the push button and remove the eraser and you're done. Though I did not remove the erasers fro the pic, there is a clean out rod stuck into the eraser. For some reason the CS is made of white plastic on the interior while the Pro is made of black. In order to change the lead grade the push button, which is also the lead grade indicator, the push button has to be removed so you can hold the long chrome neck as you rotate the outer shell of the LGI. There re detents in the LGI which lock the window in place preventing accidental changing of the LGI.</div>
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How do they perform? That's a good question! Remember this before I answer the question. The stats are hard facts. They are objective, I just make the measurements and report the data. But the rest of the review is subjective. It is based on my experiences with the pencils and my conclusions will not be the definitive truth about the pencils. It will be my opinion of the pencils based on my experiences with them and my past experiences with mechanical pencils in general. So having once again to step down off my soap box, here are my thoughts about my experiences with the pencils.</div>
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I like these pencils, though they do have a few short comings. I like the light weight feel of them because they feel almost weightless. However their slider diameter make them a little harder to hold than slightly fatter pencils. Also the silicone inserts are a little slippery feeling. When I removed the insert from the CS model I had an easier time holding the pencil as the holes made a better gripping surface. The Pro model was easier to hold than the CS model but I found that with just a little tightening of my grip solved the problem. I did find the pencils easy to control and write with as they are so well balanced. 0.3 mm pencils can easily break lead but because there seems to be very little if any wobble of the lead in the lead sleeve in both pencils they seemed to feel like writing with a 0.5 mm pencil. The lead seems to flow across the paper. Of course I only had a small amount of lead showing. This helps any pencil when it comes to lead breakage. Also the lead in the Pro seems softer than the lead in the CS. It may be grade B. Grade HB is in the CS.</div>
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In conclusion, I will say that the Pentel Graph 1000 for Pro and the CS are winners, even if they do a quirk or 2... or is it me that has the quirks? Anyway you can find the Pentel Graph 1000 for Pro and the Pentel Graph 1000 CS on-line at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>.</div>
The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-83018073832748793062015-03-12T18:12:00.000-04:002015-03-12T18:12:57.281-04:00Uni-Ball Kuru Toga 0.5 mm Starter Set<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-uyYIp310-g9EoK3xRaSq01PtBb1ziwt2BZ8_Slhwxg2Y7DXbjC9M-FxBETZG0uZV117gdtusBE3KuHNLBES4-UipvbkiM5fNejYLrIbViA5NEZP3xsKSnZy0p4RFTCGKZ6CanqFvx4/s1600/KT+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig-uyYIp310-g9EoK3xRaSq01PtBb1ziwt2BZ8_Slhwxg2Y7DXbjC9M-FxBETZG0uZV117gdtusBE3KuHNLBES4-UipvbkiM5fNejYLrIbViA5NEZP3xsKSnZy0p4RFTCGKZ6CanqFvx4/s1600/KT+7.jpg" height="173" width="400" /></a></div>
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Several years ago the Mitsubishi Pencil Company introduced the first Kuru Toga Mechanical Pencil under the Uni-ball brand name. It was what has come to be known as the Standard Model. Since the Standard Model was introduced the company has introduced the High Grade and later the Roulette as well as a host of other models and colors in 3 lead sizes. The pencils revolutionary "Kuru Toga" or Auto Rotation Engine has made the Kuru Toga line of pencils very popular across the world. But up until a couple of years ago this line of pencils was only available in the US from online retailers.</div>
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I first saw this pencil at my local Wal Mart last year yet the copyright date for the pencil is 2013. So it's my guess that the pencil has been out since then. So I'm running par for the course by blogging about a pencil that everyone else has already blogged about. What can I say? I'm an old Geezer after all. And Old Geezers are often slow do to our advanced years. Anyway as you can see by the pic below that the pencil is offered in America by the Sanford Brands division of Newell Rubbermaid. Sanford Brands is the soul distributor of Mitsubishi Uni and Uni-Ball products in North America.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaFiua6qKZ0lq4oFY7fVmheO74Nxp-eGH43Gy_9DMwzhYZhJmD9lYuzPcMoW6olaiGyf5OhimZYtNmnrzc6SKru-8FgnFaqO1dY5pCEig80Wo24hlxHCcDQDumiUag3KspoKHJYahiq7g/s1600/KT+THREE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaFiua6qKZ0lq4oFY7fVmheO74Nxp-eGH43Gy_9DMwzhYZhJmD9lYuzPcMoW6olaiGyf5OhimZYtNmnrzc6SKru-8FgnFaqO1dY5pCEig80Wo24hlxHCcDQDumiUag3KspoKHJYahiq7g/s1600/KT+THREE.jpg" height="72" width="400" /></a></div>
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The pencil in the Starter Set is different than the Standard Model that can be had on-line, though this too can be found on-line. The pencil itself differs only in it's look. However the Starter Set comes with a pack of 12 leads designed just for the Kuru Toga pencils and 2 erasers. This set is (was)* exclusive to the US. For a better (and much quicker) description of the entire Kuru Toga Line, follow this<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_OXoxymeho#t=11" target="_blank"> link</a>.<br />
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The Starters Set also is unique in price. The Standard model alone sells for around $7.00 to $8.00 depending on where you buy it. The Starter Set sells for between $5.00 and $6.00, again depending on where you buy it. For me this is by far the best value in the Kuru Toga line in either the 0.5 mm version, like mine, or the 0.7 mm version. For those of you who use the erasers that come with mechanical pencils the 2 extra erasers are a nice bonus. As far as the leads is concerned, well I can not speak to how good it is because I have no real way of testing pencils leads. But the package has this to read...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlS_Fh5EWYrMH5cIyvrUwWi_T8Wd87T-E9SRb2IzwQhyphenhyphen9G_bNSfbWbNZgPCsbHSUQ7EGR4L6NB5Bx1BqOyUnbv1sdQgLH6BYeAnFaMwYUgO7MQooX_E19eJxEy3ucFI1LjxuyHn09lZI/s1600/KT+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlS_Fh5EWYrMH5cIyvrUwWi_T8Wd87T-E9SRb2IzwQhyphenhyphen9G_bNSfbWbNZgPCsbHSUQ7EGR4L6NB5Bx1BqOyUnbv1sdQgLH6BYeAnFaMwYUgO7MQooX_E19eJxEy3ucFI1LjxuyHn09lZI/s1600/KT+8.jpg" height="43" width="400" /></a></div>
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So you are on your own when it comes to your choice of lead to use. But I've always had success with Pentel's Super Polymer leads. It would be interesting to know who Mitsubishi considers the maker of "... the leading lead".</div>
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If you discount the rubber ring at the metal tip of the pencil then the grip diameter is approximately 9 mm. Count the rubber ring and it's 10 mm. Your choice. The rest of the pencil is approximately 9 mm in diameter. The pencil is approximately 141 mm long and weighs approximately 9.6 grams. The entire tip of the pencil measures approximately 22 mm and the grip... Well if I use the silver ring on the Standard Model as the end of the grip them the grip is approximately 28 mm long. If I use the back of the first ring on the grip then it is approximately 15 mm long. Take your pick. The balance point is approximately 71 mm from the tip of the pencil. Yawn, so much for the stats.</div>
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So as far as the pencil itself goes, well it is really nothing more than a Standard Model with a little less paint on it. But as far as the Starter Set as a package goes, well this one is a real winner in my book. Why? Because of the great value the Starter Set offers. You get a Standard Model Kuru Toga, one of the best mechanical pencils ever invented, in either 0.5 mm or 0.7 mm, the 2 most popular lead sizes, a 12 pack of Uni's best lead and a couple of spare erasers for less than the price of a slightly more fancy Standard Model. What's not to like?<br />
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You can purchase the Starter set from Wal Mart and probably from other retail outlets as well as on line at<a href="http://www.jetpens.com/" target="_blank"> jetpens.com</a> where you can purchase the entire line of Uni Kuru Toka pencils.<br />
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On a personal note, I use a Roulette model in 0.5 mm as my every day pencil and could not be happier with my choice.<br />
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Notes: * Before the invention of the Internet and the World Wide Web I can see the usefulness of making a product aimed at a specific group or country. And to some degree it still has merit. Retail brick and mortar stores have to have something to sell after all. But when some "sold only in (you name the country)" items can be bought from online retailers based in many different countries, the idea makes less and less since every day.The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-15269066791151860362014-12-15T21:50:00.000-05:002014-12-20T21:00:08.642-05:00Pentel GraphGear 1000, "The Hunchback" in 0.3mm<div abp="3605" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a abp="3606" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgYO7MdkGOfxYDusdDCuilM-ltzZ7pGH_7_zpl2bbAR7HIWmUE-nJVlHLhamP57_AMmFZK8yQ8bpd6eVgqGIDCb1LzE3SQH5CeOMMu2aCTdZq289bFPj_v9fI0mv4LciKCxDXaTpKiDh0/s1600/GraphGear+1000+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img abp="3607" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgYO7MdkGOfxYDusdDCuilM-ltzZ7pGH_7_zpl2bbAR7HIWmUE-nJVlHLhamP57_AMmFZK8yQ8bpd6eVgqGIDCb1LzE3SQH5CeOMMu2aCTdZq289bFPj_v9fI0mv4LciKCxDXaTpKiDh0/s1600/GraphGear+1000+(Custom).jpg" /></a></div>
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For the longest time I avoided buying this pencil because I did not like the look of the pocket clip. It reminds me of Quasimodo, the hunchback in The Hunchback of Notre Dame. Not that hunchbacks can't be beautiful people. They can. I even have a figment that's a hunchback and he's, eh, bad example. Let's just say that it looked odd to me and let it go at that. (Man! You've got to be "politically correct" about everything now-a-days or you'll offend somebody somewhere!). I thought that it was made as it is so that the user could clip the pencil to a notebook full of paper or onto a jeans pocket, you know, something thick. While it can do this it is not the pocket clips main purpose. More about that later.</div>
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One thing I noticed about the Pentel GraphGear 1000 it that the exterior is metal while the interior is mostly plastic. Most pencils that are called "all-metal" are made from brass because brass is easy to machine. It is also strong enough to be used in the making of a drafting pencil. The actual lead sleeve is usually made of stainless steel because a brass tube that small would easily crush and bend. It is also softer thus prone to wear. However the Pentel GraphGear 1000s exterior is made of steel or stainless steel! I'm starting to be impressed.</div>
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The advantage of using steel/stainless steel in a drafting pencils construction is that steel is stronger than brass or aluminum. It takes a lot more pressure to bend a small tube of steel/stainless steel than it does of brass or aluminum. You can also make the skin of a pencil thinner. The trade off may be that the pencil is now heavier than one made of brass or aluminum, but not always. The GraphGear 1000 weighs 20.6 grams approximately while a rotring 600, which is made almost entirely of brass, weighs 22.7 grams approximately. The weight savings is achieved by using a plastic inner core for most of the pencil.</div>
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Steel and some stainless steels are magnetic. About the only metal parts of the GraphGear 1000 that are not magnetic are the push button, the lead reservoir (interior) and the lead sleeve (interior and exterior). These parts are most likely stainless steel with a low or no carbon content. The pocket clip is high carbon steel chrome plated. All the steel/stainless steel parts have been coated or plated to achieve the desired finish and for durability. I'm even more impressed now.</div>
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Now, about that pocket clip... The pencil is designed so that the lead sleeve is retractable. The obvious benefit of this is that the 4.5mm lead sleeve won't be poking you in the chest and/or ruining your good shirts (dried blood is hard to get out of some fabrics). The designers of the GraphGear 1000 decided to spring load the lead reservoir, of which the lead sleeve is attached, wrap a big coil spring around it and use the spring loaded pocket clip as a stop and release button.</div>
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There are 2 cutouts in the body of the pencil, near the top. The pocket clip has a leaf spring attached to it which extends down into the top cutout. The end is attached to a short metal tube which is held in place by the stepped ring just above the pocket clip. The other end of the pocket clip rests on a short plastic tube surrounding the metal lead reservoir. As the push button atop the pencil is pressed the entire lead reservoir is moved down pushing the leas sleeve out the tip of the pencil. When the end of the pocket clip slips over the end of the short plastic tube it locks the lead reservoir in place, with the lead sleeve extended. Further presses of the push button simply extend more lead.</div>
<div abp="4488">
<br /></div>
<table abp="4489" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody abp="4490">
<tr abp="4491"><td abp="4492" style="text-align: center;"><div abp="4493">
<a abp="4494" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Gjx-DqQR9a47cBlOyXXwxZ5Sgyg_uTOLCHqDa9XxriWvXOfzgxp3z4LDpbJuInJGI5tlePxdjGWMof9bwhwM0Kvq8coRXwR8Nt4kZ5XN4fcqCo9lemmmDTJGfjlrGYl6mWVkuZRUygE/s1600/Road+Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img abp="4495" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Gjx-DqQR9a47cBlOyXXwxZ5Sgyg_uTOLCHqDa9XxriWvXOfzgxp3z4LDpbJuInJGI5tlePxdjGWMof9bwhwM0Kvq8coRXwR8Nt4kZ5XN4fcqCo9lemmmDTJGfjlrGYl6mWVkuZRUygE/s1600/Road+Map.jpg" height="103" width="400" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr abp="4496"><td abp="4497" class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div abp="4498">
Parts of the Pentel GraphGear 1000</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div abp="4499">
To release the lead reservoir and retract the lead sleeve all one does is press the top of the pocket clip towards the pencil. The plastic tube inside is released and the lead sleeve is retracted with a snap. Not a bad way to extend and hide the lead sleeve. It is certainly quicker than the twist/screw system of the Ohto Super Promechas. The weak point in this design is the leaf spring in the top of the pocket clip. Heavy usage of the pencil over a long, long, long time could cause the leaf spring to fail. But I don't think that if I were a young man of 20 again and I used the pencil every day for long periods I think that now that I am a man of advanced years the pencil would still be going strong.</div>
<div abp="4500">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4501">
So, what are some of the other features of this nice pencil? Well, there is a lead grade indicator window in the grip. To set the desired lead grade (as long as the grade of lead you are using is 2H, H, HB, B or 2B, the full range of available lead grades on the circumference of the pencil) all you have to do is to hold the pencil at the colored band between the grip and the body. Next loosen the tip just a little. Now turn the grip until the window is showing the lead grade of choice. Then hold the pencil as before and tighten the tip. Simple, no? The grip features some almost useless knurling, useless because it has very little grip. The silicone ovals serve a little better of a grip surface. In my opinion the knurling needs to be a bit sharper and the silicone ovals larger and perhaps protrude a little more. I'm not so impressed with the grip.</div>
<div abp="4502">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4503">
The overall appearance of the pencil is pleasing, except for the pocket clip. The lettering on the barrel and push button is crisp and clean. However the lettering on the lead grade indicator is not. It appears smudged. The satin tip and grainy barrel are a nice contrast with the light catching knurling being in between. The pocket clip, stepped collar and the push button are bright chrome. I would say that it's a pretty pencil except for that hunchback appearance.</div>
<div abp="4504">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4505">
One long push of the push button extends the lead sleeve. Two more presses extend enough lead to use. The mechanism is noisy, the initial press of the push button and the release of the lead sleeve are especially loud and the pressing of the push button to extend lead is very clanky and mechanical sounding.</div>
<div abp="4506">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4507">
The GraphGear 1000 brakes down further than most drafting pencils. But I do not recommend that the average user strip the pencil as far as it will go as putting it back together could result is breakage. However in order to clear a lead jam you will have to take off the tip as well as the lead sleeve. To do this, initially hold the pencil as described in the section on adjusting the lead grade indicator. Once the tip is loose hold the body only as the grip now turns freely. Once the tip and grip have been removed remove the lead sleeve by unscrewing it. Surprisingly Pentel has included a clean out rod attached to the underside of the eraser. It is accessed by removing the push button. Remember to replace the push button before tiling up the pencil or you will spill out the lead. Once the lead jam has been cleared (see the section of my blog on how to clear a lead jam) reassemble the pencil.</div>
<div abp="4508">
<br /></div>
<table abp="4509" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody abp="4510">
<tr abp="4511"><td abp="4512" style="text-align: center;"><div abp="4513">
<a abp="4514" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RnT18HD4_cte-_DBtgq88pjiXh_Mvje6wnjL7iS5Vi2exzGqFRjSa93y5_bm8YYsmmxmj7Fj7BxXbPA6Q7Qi1W41KpzIZqSVvcWbCuql4hJIhKAz7-_S3_1HoAQ5TppwIZb-NJQaovE/s1600/GraphGear+1000+Clean.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img abp="4515" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RnT18HD4_cte-_DBtgq88pjiXh_Mvje6wnjL7iS5Vi2exzGqFRjSa93y5_bm8YYsmmxmj7Fj7BxXbPA6Q7Qi1W41KpzIZqSVvcWbCuql4hJIhKAz7-_S3_1HoAQ5TppwIZb-NJQaovE/s1600/GraphGear+1000+Clean.jpg" height="111" width="400" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr abp="4516"><td abp="4517" class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div abp="4518">
Breakdown of the GraphGear 1000 for Claring a Lead Jam</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div abp="4519">
Stats. Where would we be without the stats? The pencil is 148.5 mm extended, 149 mm retracted. The balance point is 79 mm from the end of the lead sleeve (I did not measure it retracted as what difference does it make?). The grip is 43.5 mm in length and the end of the pencil is 20.5 mm extended and 16 mm retracted. The body is 8.5 mm across and the grip 9.5 mm across. As stated before the weight is 20.6 grams (all measurements are approximate). It's a nice medium length, middle weight pencil.</div>
<div abp="4520">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4521">
My experience writing with the pencil is less than satisfactory. The reason being is that I could not get a good grip on the thing. As I wrote my hand actually slipped down the grip! I only purchased this pencil because I received a gift certificate from JetPens.com, the best Internet store for the purchase of Japanese stationary and art items, including drafting and mechanical pencils. It is a very rare thing for me to write that while the Pentel GrafGear 1000 has some nice features they do not out weigh, in my opinion, the negatives the pencil has. So I can not recommend the purchase of this particular pencil.</div>
<div abp="4522">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4523">
But hey, it's only my opinion and what do I know?...</div>
<div abp="4524">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4525">
This and many other fine Japanese stationary items can be found at <a abp="4526" href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>. Why not pay them a visit right now?</div>
<div abp="4527">
<br /></div>
<div abp="4528">
Thanks for reading my blog.<br />
<br />
<br />
Editors note: I have seen where the style of pocket clip as featured on my pencil has broken. The new style has a hinge system in its place. If you purchase one of these in any lead sixe be sure it has the newer hinge style pocket clip. </div>
</div>
The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-13821877289289978052014-11-02T20:43:00.000-05:002014-11-02T20:44:19.990-05:00Pentel Orenz <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxb0ClfIZ4NkqeA66XaCIjDbpHi3tU9X7Sll5tqPp5HJRxPO3HitUCVl6PWBIj7l-UYo5gR5gZy9sJmI-bhf1tm7asEo7sa3yiK1IBol42zsfZOeNNSjP6LsAFVMa6IICqlp9otqPCms/s1600/orenz++1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxb0ClfIZ4NkqeA66XaCIjDbpHi3tU9X7Sll5tqPp5HJRxPO3HitUCVl6PWBIj7l-UYo5gR5gZy9sJmI-bhf1tm7asEo7sa3yiK1IBol42zsfZOeNNSjP6LsAFVMa6IICqlp9otqPCms/s1600/orenz++1.jpg" height="640" width="121" /></a></div>
From time to time I look at the Mechanical Pencils at jetpens.com just for fun. I guess that I should look at them more often because this is where I found the Pentel Orenz mechanical pencil. I almost missed this on... Ah who am I kidding! I did miss this one as it seems to have been around a couple of years. But better late than never I say.<br />
<br />
The Orenz is a very handsome little pencil is Sky Blue. I'm fond of blue, so I really don't mind that when I went to purchase mine they were all out of black. But color does not make a pencil good or bad, but it does go a long way towards out perception of a pencil, or any other object for that matter. If we don't like the color then we may not like the object. So our perception of an object, based on color, shape, size, what have you, goes a long way towards how we feel or think about an object. I like the Blue. A business person probably would like the black one, a doctor might like the white one, a young lady, perhaps the pink one and a monkey might go bananas for the yellow one. But a pencil by another color will write the same.<br />
<br />
An writing is just what the Orenz was designed to do. Pentel took a page from their PG2 drafting pencil and went one better. Like the PG2 the Orenz is made in 0.2 mm! That's right! 0.2 mm! The PG2 is a partial sliding sleeve design. The lead sleeve slides about 1/2 way up the length of the sleeve then stops. The sleeve of the Orenz will slide all the way to the tip of the pencil, though I don't recommend that you do that very often. While the PG2 uses a more ore less conventional system for the lead sleeve the Orenz incorporates a new, innovative system. Pentel calls it the "Lead Support System". It's a very simple system. So simple I wonder why no one has come out with something like it before!<br />
<br />
The heart of the "Lead Support System" is a unique weighted lead sleeve/lead retainer system. The lead sleeve is attached to a brass cone that holds the lead in place and keeps it from falling straight through the pencil. This device rides the lead and maintains it's position on the lead inside the pencil. When the push button atop the pencil is pressed the lead is once more extended. However because the cone is struck as the clutch is pressed down and opened, the cone pulls the lead down and holds the lead inside it in place so when the lead sleeve is extended the lead stays flush with the tip of the lead sleeve. As you write the lead is used up and the lead sleeve/cone rides up the lead inside the pencil. When the pushbutton is pressed the cone maintains the length of lead within the sleeve so no lead protrudes beyond the tip of the lead sleeve.<br />
<br />
The pencil comes preloaded with lead and is ready to use with a single push of the button. As you write the lead sleeve actually rides the edge of the paper and because of this it feels a tiny bit scratchy at certain angles. As the lead is used up the free floating lead sleeve rides back up into the pencil cone. A single press of the push button extends the lead sleeve and the lead inside it with out pushing the lead beyond the end of the lead sleeve so writing can continue. As long as the system is feed a continues stream of lead there is no reason to ever press the push button more than once. When at the end of the writing experience you wish to retire the pencil for the day all you have to do to reset the pencil is to press the push button and hold it then press the tip of the lead sleeve against a hard surface, or use your finger, while simultaneously releasing the bush button. This will drive the lead sleeve up into the pencil once more and will reset the system.<br />
<br />
If you ever have to refill the pencil with lead or when a piece of lead is so short that the system no longer holds onto it or for whatever reason that you have to restart the system you will have to press the bush button enough time to expose lead out the end of the lead sleeve. Next just follow the above instructions on retracting the lead sleeve. When you need to use the pencil, simply press the push button once and begin writing.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR25nccOwHLAqnk0tKeFeCPPRr0gfCLWReUXtU2szhAEXbpUrmZMFgapi-VeHzrWD-jHdUOBcL3KBmc44fTzYnDu7ieRxH_aCg7gEoHBljlC7zX4piJJCHy918OY-oTd788AfSqJYCC4g/s1600/floater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR25nccOwHLAqnk0tKeFeCPPRr0gfCLWReUXtU2szhAEXbpUrmZMFgapi-VeHzrWD-jHdUOBcL3KBmc44fTzYnDu7ieRxH_aCg7gEoHBljlC7zX4piJJCHy918OY-oTd788AfSqJYCC4g/s1600/floater.jpg" height="138" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Figure 1 (above) shows the relationship of the tip, lead sleeve and the clutch (housed in the main body). Figure 2 (below) shows the lead sleeve extended (top) and retracted bottom).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpRC6IYqmOIGUPR61oVv8rLRSAkGs5wx_KKfHwZqda5I8u7U3A8HvvSOyNQJ9VqAdJhlUKr4KYb5Ex_eV5zw4_VS0GkTvKuVW5vcrl6ledYLOF0EjOx0e_ilHjJDAwVpzB6vtHXBC-6ww/s1600/extended_retracted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpRC6IYqmOIGUPR61oVv8rLRSAkGs5wx_KKfHwZqda5I8u7U3A8HvvSOyNQJ9VqAdJhlUKr4KYb5Ex_eV5zw4_VS0GkTvKuVW5vcrl6ledYLOF0EjOx0e_ilHjJDAwVpzB6vtHXBC-6ww/s1600/extended_retracted.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Now for some of those "boring" stats. The Orenz weighs 10.1 grams, making it a light weight. It is 142 mm retracted and 145 mm extended, making it of average length. The grip length is 43 mm long and the tip is 18 mm long. The balance point is 71 mm from the tip of the lead sleeve making it almost perfectly balanced. The diameter of the grip area is 9.5 mm at the pencil and 8 mm at the tip. </div>
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The over all look of the pencil is attractive with it's stainless steel tip, chrome pocket clip and push button cap contrasting nicely with the sky blue of the one piece body. As far as how the Orenz writes, well, my copy feels a little scratchy from time to time, depending on the angle I held the pencil. The closer I approached the vertical the scratchier it felt. So I took a bit of 4 zero steel wool to the tip, genteelly, which seems to have helped However I DO NOT recommend that if your Orenz is scratchy that you put steel wool, or any abrasive, to the delicate tip unless you know exactly what you are doing.</div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Pentel Orenz is available in Black, White, Sky Blue, Yellow and Pink and are available from our friends at<a href="http://jetpens.com/" target="_blank"> jetpens.com</a></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Pentel Orenz used in this review us solely or in part made possible by a gift certificate a from our friends at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a></div>
The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-32718771640014833692014-09-14T18:39:00.000-04:002014-09-17T18:17:08.231-04:00The Pentel Sharp Kerry and the Mad Mathematician <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5RZJUWLQ8W1AbJvpCzdONC_fxcGiy4tprr5Old7FcSF62Un-RmXTfUfAYtrdIGTxLD9oxHjoYFC3eKo50Ge29QZBRnGtEBc029FZ6XAsGVSSidZ4sluUh2oymnCljt3eH87HbSBo3lA/s1600/Tussy+close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5RZJUWLQ8W1AbJvpCzdONC_fxcGiy4tprr5Old7FcSF62Un-RmXTfUfAYtrdIGTxLD9oxHjoYFC3eKo50Ge29QZBRnGtEBc029FZ6XAsGVSSidZ4sluUh2oymnCljt3eH87HbSBo3lA/s1600/Tussy+close+up.jpg" height="308" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miss Tussy Pink<br />
Click to enlarge... On second thought, don't...</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Miss Tussy! Well I haven't seen you in some time! You sure are looking good, Tussy!, Eh, but where are my manners? Ladies and gentlemen, Miss Tussy Pink!</div>
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"Oh, Geezer! You sharp tongued fox you! I've missed you!"</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Well, Tussy, I've missed you, and Tommy and Zedragon the Zefoid? </div>
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How are they, by the way? </div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"Oh, they are doing just fine, Geezer. Tommy and I are officially engaged!"</div>
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</div>
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Well this is wonderful news! When's the wedding?</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"Oh, we've not set a date just yet."</div>
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</div>
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Well, will I be invited to the wedding?</div>
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</div>
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"Of course, Geezer! I couldn't get married if you aren't there! I want you to give me away!"</div>
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</div>
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Tussy! I'm honored! I'd be happy to give you away!</div>
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</div>
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"Thank you, Geezer! You know how much you mean to me!"</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
No problem, Tussy. By the way, to what do I owe the honor of this visit? Oh! I see! You have the Mad Mathematician's gift to me, the Pentel Sharp Kerry! I guess this means that you want me to give my review of the pencil?</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"Geezer, you are so astute."</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Tussy, you flatter me.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7FSFfQ2ArpPNFtSrrPSCeKlB2fGi82AI6M6mTyi5g_Jp6AHmlvtUXz9MiL_gpk93Oum66i5c83eUz2MHi3C9RKfRK8tZ6ia5oMLCOmHI-eh-gIowMl-4YVnuMc_9M3Uom4uk7wMuZwM8/s1600/Tussy+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7FSFfQ2ArpPNFtSrrPSCeKlB2fGi82AI6M6mTyi5g_Jp6AHmlvtUXz9MiL_gpk93Oum66i5c83eUz2MHi3C9RKfRK8tZ6ia5oMLCOmHI-eh-gIowMl-4YVnuMc_9M3Uom4uk7wMuZwM8/s1600/Tussy+2.jpg" height="640" width="545" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miss Tussy Pink and my<br />
Pentel Sharp Kerry<br />
Click to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
"By the way, Geezer, who's this Mad Mathematician you refer to?"</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Oh, that would be Tim McLarnan.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
He's some
crazy pencil-loving math professor form Indiana who read most of my blog in one sitting! He e-mailed me one day asking if I'd do a review of the Pentel Sharp Kerry. When I informed him that I didn't own one he was gracious enough to send me one of his! Nice guy, huh?</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"He sounds like a very nice man indeed, Geezer! I'll bet he and I could crunch some numbers together!"</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
TUSSY! This is a G-rated blog, </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
remember? Besides, didn't you just tell me that you and Tommy Turquoise just got engaged? </div>
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<br />
<br />
"I'm so sorry, Geezer! I don't know what came over me!... I... I feel a little woozy!" </div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Are you alright, Tussy?</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"Yes, yes!... Perhaps I'll go and lie down in my room."</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Well, alright, Tussy. I'll check in on you later.</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"Thank you, Geezer, but there's really no need. Tommy will be by shortly."</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Alright, Tussy. Take care.</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
"Thank you, Geezer. I surely will. Bye, for now."</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Goodbye, Tussy.</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Boy, she can be a handful sometime! But at least she did bring me the Pentel Sharp Kerry that MathProfMan sent me, (don't ask). So, I guess it's about time that I did my review...</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It's rare that I get a request to review a certain item but when I do it is always to do a review of an item the requester already has! Such is the case with the Pentel Sharp Kerry. I get an e-mail form this guy who has a couple of requests concerning the stats that I provide. Then he proceeds to school me in a grammar lesson! And yes, I did need it! By the professional tone of his e-mail I figured him for at the least an English teacher. Nope. He's a Math Professor from Indiana. He must be a speed reader because at the very beginning of his e-mail he confesses to reading most of my entire blog in one night! Wow! Now that's a compliment!</div>
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He had several requests the most significant being that he wanted me to do a review of the Pentel Sharp Kerry. As I told Tussy I told him that I didn't have one so he graciously decided to send me one of his! But not just any Sharp Kerry, but one that has historical significance. According to Tim, <em>"...I read somewhere that they’re called Sharp Kerry because (a)
“sharp” just means mechanical pencil in Japanese, and (b) the black ones were
the original design, and they reminded the designer of the black Kerry cattle
he had seen in Ireland. So I’m sending you the most historically
significant kind". </em>Cool! So for all you Pentel Sharp Kerry fans, especially the Mad Mathematician, her is my review of the Pentel Sharp Kerry, finally.</div>
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I am a fan of the slender drafting pencils in 0.3 mm and 0.4 mm. They are a bit scratchy when used, but that's the price one pays for super fine lines. So normally I shy away from the "mechanical" pencil with few exceptions, the Mitsubishi/Uni Kuru Toga line of autorotation mechanical pencils being the most outstanding. So under normal circumstances I would never would have considered a Pentel Sharp Kerry as one that I would enjoy using. That was a mistake.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYGHZFWCCblFH792SaXE4bO4tGBu02pi6_m7QA7tmR4CF9j_hMzyf2y6ckVx4uXgptLZx1jC0EbfS30BDQl6K1FaW8bKqlG7Z0UjkHJm4hlkaXW0FmHNrGfNT61v0glEuvzTzkxLYoVc/s1600/Pencil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYGHZFWCCblFH792SaXE4bO4tGBu02pi6_m7QA7tmR4CF9j_hMzyf2y6ckVx4uXgptLZx1jC0EbfS30BDQl6K1FaW8bKqlG7Z0UjkHJm4hlkaXW0FmHNrGfNT61v0glEuvzTzkxLYoVc/s1600/Pencil.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pentel Sharp Kerry<br />
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The Pentel Sharp Kerry is a very unique pencil with unique features. At first one might easily mistake the Sharp Kerry for an elegant fountain pen or other fine pen because of it's design. It is one of only 2 pencils, that I am aware of (which doesn't say much), that has to be "posted" in order to work properly! That is the cap is removed from the pencil and posted on the back in order for the pencil's ratchet mechanism to function properly and for the pencil to be balanced and fit comfortably in the hand.</div>
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The pencil has 2 push buttons. An inner and an outie, eh, outer. The inner push button connects directly to the lead reservoir/clutch system. When the pencil is not posted you can push the button to advance lead but it's sort of clumsy due to the pencils short length. When posted, as intended by the designers, the outer, self contained, push button activates the inner push button. This is quite the innovation, considering. But apparently either not a very popular one, like the Shaker, or Pentel holds the patented on this and almost all variations. Either way the Pentel Kerry stands out as a misunderstood and under appreciated mechanical pencil. For the design lends itself to one very unique characteristic. It can easily help prevent ovaling. </div>
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Ovaling is where the lead from <em>any</em> pencil (except the Kuru Toga) goes from making a sharp, rounded mark to a wide oval one. This is due to how we, as humans, write (chimps may write differently, but I don't know any chips so I can't ask). We hold out writing instruments at an angle to the paper as opposed to perpendicular. We don't normally twist the pencil in our hand, as some in the drafting/architectural field are taught, but rather grasp it firmly in hand in a static position and grind away until our writing is illegible due to the fact that we write very small and our pencil now writes very big! </div>
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By turning the pencil a quarter turn every few line of text we can keep the lead from a mechanical pencil from ovaling-out. But turning a normal mechanical/drafting pencil a quarter turn means that at least one in 4 turns the pocket clip is in an awkward, even painful position pressed up against the web of the hand. But what I have discovered with the Sharp Kerry is that in order to turn it one quarter turn is to turn the pencil down into my fist and turn the cap in either direction (hopefully the same direction every time) before returning it to a writing position. With use this can become almost automatic.</div>
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I'll bet you didn't know that, MathProfMan!</div>
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Well, I've managed to fill up more space than my usual post and given you all very little useful information. So with out further ado... The Stats!</div>
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The Pentel Sharp Kerry is 123 mm long, closed, 131 mm long posted. The diameter at the center is 11 mm tapering to 9.5 mm at the end of the grip. The grip is 24 mm long and the tip, including lead sleeve, is 19 mm long. The main body of the pencil is 104.5 mm long. The diameter of the cap is 11.5 mm at the widest tapering to 7mm at the push button and is 64 mm long. The pencil weighs 21.6 grams and the balance point, posted, is 63.5 mm from the pencil tip, making the balance of the pencil a scooch.bottom heavy, but hey, can you feel a scooch?</div>
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I was quite pleasantly surprised at the Sharp Kerry. It is well balanced, making it easy to maneuver, the plastic grip, which is unadorned, is a good grip surface and the width of the 0.5 mm led make the pencil very smooth writer. It's a little on the short side for my personal tastes but that doesn't seem to be a problem, the length of the pencil, bot my personal taste. The pencil nestles in my hand well and is a genuine pleasure to write with. Because the lead sleeve is only 2 mm long it would be hard pressed to use as a drafting pencil, but well suited for freehand drawing.</div>
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The pencil is not at all unattractive, except maybe the inner push button. The indented rings make the inner push button look odd, but they serve a very good purpose. They are needed as grips in order to get the push button off in order to fill the lead reservoir with lead. Under the outer push button is the obligatory eraser, no clean out rod though (so what else is new?). The glass black finish of the </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnZDeRsRq5AoKcNY4JbTi2swA8iPyZi4hXn1r2ZVRxFVQkuL_2begOhZwoXbMFDa-Usw581n71jiDcUiqEIbC8QrmppRSVLdxzIy16pzFA-Wf-esvtNT1izYtWCDy4qsaMtEwhskZPmA/s1600/Kerry+disassembled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnZDeRsRq5AoKcNY4JbTi2swA8iPyZi4hXn1r2ZVRxFVQkuL_2begOhZwoXbMFDa-Usw581n71jiDcUiqEIbC8QrmppRSVLdxzIy16pzFA-Wf-esvtNT1izYtWCDy4qsaMtEwhskZPmA/s1600/Kerry+disassembled.jpg" height="256" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pentel Sharp Kerry Disassembled <br />
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plastic parts contrast well with the bright chrome of the metal parts for a very pleasing appearance. The only slight mar to this is the satin finish on the tip of the pencil, Why did they not just keep the look going with a bright finish on the tip is a question to ask Pentel (if you could actually contact someone who knew). To me it would have made for a nice looking pencil... Yes, Tussy, it would <br />
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have been prettier.</div>
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The Sharp Kerry is unusual in another way. It easily, with minimal effort, breaks down into 9 separate components. From left to right, back row, of the pic above they are the: tip with 4 mm lead sleeve; grip; connector; upper body; cap with attached pocket clip; eraser, which resides under the outer cap in the cap; outer push button cap; inner push button cap; and in the front row the all metal lead reservoir and ratcheting clutch system. The Sharp Kerry follows the Sharp Series (P203 - P209) in that the reservoir and clutch are one unit with a captive spring. An over sized hex just above the clutch aligns and keeps the clutch system spinning so that the tip can be screwed onto the clutch thus holding the system together.. However there is no interchangeability of this unit between the 2 pencils.</div>
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Unlike a lot of mechanical pencils of it's price range, and some above it, the reservoir and mechanism are made entirely (as far as I could see) of metal. The lead reservoir is a bright chrome and substantial enough to withstand the rigors of years and years of lead advancement. It's also big enough to hold a dozen leads. However don't put any more than 1/2 a dozen leads in the pencil, this pencil, or any other mechanical pencil. The reason being that to many leads can prevent one from aligning with the mouth of the feed tube inside the reservoir. To access the reservoir the pencil must be un-posted. The rings in the cap allow you to use a fingernail to pull up on it thus removing it. To access the eraser (Please don't! Buy a good stick style eraser like the Uni E-Knock, from <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>), the pencil has to be posted so the inner push button can push the outer one up enough to grasp. The fake here is that since eraser does not fit in the reservoir, the pencil can be turned upside down without lead spilling out!</div>
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To advance enough lead to write with, once the clutch has been fed, simply push down on the push button twice. Now you're ready to write (or draw, or doodle, or whatever you do with a mechanical pencil).... What I mean by, "once the clutch has been fed...", is once lead has been advanced to the point of exiting the pencil it is pushed back flush with the end of the lead sleeve with the finger tip or table top or the back of your little brother's head. The clutch has now been fed and the end of the lead rests at the tip of the lead sleeve. From this position each press of the push button to advance the lead should advance an equal amount, So now you can tell how many "clicks" it will take to produce enough lead to write with from a cold start.</div>
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The Pentel Sharp Kerry comes in only 2 lead sizes, 0,7 mm and 0.5 mm, two of the most popular lead sizes for general use. I would prefer to have had one in 0.3 mm but they don't make them in 0.3 mm. In a way that's a good thing. 0.3 mm pencils tend to be scratchy due to the fine lead. The lead also breaks easily. But the 0.5 mm and 0.7 mm diameter leads are the most popular sizes for general writing and freehand drawing. When I wrote with the pencil I found it to be a very smooth and well behaved pencil. By well behaved I mean I did not have to push or drag it across the paper. It is so well balanced and light it is a down right pleasure to write with! If it came in any finer a lead it would not perform quite as well. The sharp pointed 0.3 mm lead would drag and scratch, unless a soft grade of lead was used. But anything softer than grade HB (closest to a #2 pencil lead) would smudge easily.</div>
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Bottom line? Well I'll have to eat crow and admit that I really like the Pentel Sharp Kerry in 0.5 mm HB. It feels good in the hand, it's easy to write with, delivering a smooth performance. I especially like the way that I can turn it a quarter turn with one hand in order to keep the lead sharp. It's an elegant looking pencil as well as being a solidly, well built and designed. Believe it or not, the pencil has been around for 43 years! Amazing, isn't it?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0x04fBwM_aAKLd02wosc8meXsZTJEGeubloL2_7TJi_6FJXwhYA0rP8MAYlHbXosEoDl8v_APnRK8e6Y5QWg6AjbabBGea4YbhuBakI3ACULk8XnsHt2a6doCm6GOayZuWwx9E7IgW4E/s1600/Kerry+1971.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0x04fBwM_aAKLd02wosc8meXsZTJEGeubloL2_7TJi_6FJXwhYA0rP8MAYlHbXosEoDl8v_APnRK8e6Y5QWg6AjbabBGea4YbhuBakI3ACULk8XnsHt2a6doCm6GOayZuWwx9E7IgW4E/s1600/Kerry+1971.jpg" height="221" width="320" /></a></div>
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Well, if you want one of your own you'll have to find your own crazy pencil-loving Math Professor to con one out of, eh, I mean to manipulate into giving you one.... NO! No! That's not what I meant at all, eh, gee whiz, I've really gone and put my foot in it now...<br />
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Seriously, you can find plenty of Pentel Sharp Kerry's at our friends at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a> in 6 different colors and 2 lead sizes (not all colors available in both lead sizes).<br />
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Well, I hope that you, the reader, has enjoyed my "review" of the Mad Mathematician's (now my) Pentel Sharp Kerry. Please feel free to leave a comment, check a box and/or e-mail me and tell me what you thought of both the pencil and my review.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeKqxN7Vi4cClMn1MvXQDMyEogRmB-gCTTE7lpJ1udpJnHy_p2VrmzdUlB0QQN2WnGilfJC4faiwTiYoexJEGUmSbeSmXs89U1lparrja7NYHWHmAFg26tEdeV4FBVEHW7JbdiSRrkn8/s1600/both+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeKqxN7Vi4cClMn1MvXQDMyEogRmB-gCTTE7lpJ1udpJnHy_p2VrmzdUlB0QQN2WnGilfJC4faiwTiYoexJEGUmSbeSmXs89U1lparrja7NYHWHmAFg26tEdeV4FBVEHW7JbdiSRrkn8/s1600/both+2.jpg" height="640" width="164" /></a></div>
To the left shows the Sharp Kerry about to be posted and then posted.<br />
This additional information is at the request of one of my readers. It shows the relationship of the 2 pushbuttons. As you can see the outer pushbutton is not fully extended until the cap is posted, making firm contact with the inner pushbutton. I hope that this clarifies the relationship between the 2 pushbuttons.<br />
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Thank you for reading my humble blog.<br />
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<br />The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-15823577226138605382014-08-12T19:36:00.000-04:002014-08-12T19:36:11.317-04:00Misubishi Uni M3-552 Drafting Pencil<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhisQDfCO94k0TrwLeTv1BdFCX86p3fOcftWUUsN5rmyr-PQRDH8tsgkCrKeRi2J6A3XOfc9cSg3qtAQW4YU07kblGveflvpME7F4DoRhQNLiVLoBhrd1_wkrxlNLiKPSqIFJSJ6hHrU3k/s1600/M3-552-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhisQDfCO94k0TrwLeTv1BdFCX86p3fOcftWUUsN5rmyr-PQRDH8tsgkCrKeRi2J6A3XOfc9cSg3qtAQW4YU07kblGveflvpME7F4DoRhQNLiVLoBhrd1_wkrxlNLiKPSqIFJSJ6hHrU3k/s1600/M3-552-1.jpg" /></a><br />
In 1887 the Masaki Pencil company was born. They made some of the finest wooden pencils in the world. After WW II they became the Mitsubishi Pencil Company, Ltd. They company now makes some of the worlds finest mechanical pencils under the Uni brand. The most famous of these is undoubtedly the Kuru Toga line of auto rotating pencils. To learn more about these pencils see my reviews <a href="http://onelonemanspensandpencils.blogspot.com/2012/10/uni-kuru-toga-family-of-mechanical.html" target="_blank">"uni Kuru Toga Family of Mechanicals pencils"</a> and <a href="http://onelonemanspensandpencils.blogspot.com/2011/07/kuru-toga-roulette.html" target="_blank">"The Kuru Toga Roulette"</a>. But The Mitsubishi Pencil Co., Ltd. makes other mechanical pencils as well. Among them is the Uni 552 series of pencils. These simple, sturdy entry level drafting pencils are often overlooked and neglected because of the overshadowing of the better known Uni Kuru Toga line of pencils.<br />
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This review will be about the M3-552, the 0.3 mm version. However the pencil also comes in 0.4 mm,0.5 mm, 0.7mm and 0.9 mm lead sizes. So let's start with every bodies favorite, the stats! The M3-552 measures 141 mm long from the end of the lead sleeve to the tip of the push button. It's round body and grip measure 8 mm and 8.5 mm respectively. The nicely knurled metal grip measures 27 mm. From the end of the lead sleeve to the beginning of the grip measures 17 mm, for those of you who like to grip there pencils very low. The balance point is 61 mm, measured to the tip of the pencil. Last, but not least, the pencil weighs 12.7 grams. How's that for stat lovers. Gee, you guys need a hobby...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHpcd4jBv8Hjlf_wuJHJhfMI55hyphenhyphena9HJw0menDpJ-jsBY_vqOd9zvvkVkvCDxaVsUgjk97ScXVXi0Ms8AEVphFdAUlC_0FiwIR2VuxgEGODRKzBV2yiOkXKbDXmtwbssmrDorZqZzyP24/s1600/Tommy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHpcd4jBv8Hjlf_wuJHJhfMI55hyphenhyphena9HJw0menDpJ-jsBY_vqOd9zvvkVkvCDxaVsUgjk97ScXVXi0Ms8AEVphFdAUlC_0FiwIR2VuxgEGODRKzBV2yiOkXKbDXmtwbssmrDorZqZzyP24/s1600/Tommy.jpg" height="200" width="154" /></a><br />
... Sorry boys and girls, but the Old Geezer is feeling pretty old tonight. I wish it were more like the early days with Tommy Turquoise and Tussy Pink and that green guy from Zetta 1, Zedragon the Zephoid. (Sigh) I sure miss them. I wonder where they all got off to...<br />
"We're right here, Geezer. Well at least I am. I think Tussy and Zedragon are around someplace..." TOMMY! Tommy Turquoise! Man, I'm so glad to see you! Where have you guys been, Tommy? "Right here, Geezer. We've all been right here in your imagination. All you've had to do was call upon us and we'd have been right here to help you out." Gosh. You sure are a good friend, Tommy. I'm, I'm sorry that I haven't called upon you guys lately. I guess that I sort of, eh, well,... "You thought that we were not as sophisticated and as elegant as other peoples blog assistants?" Well, yeah. I'm sorry for not believing in you guys so much any more. I... I don't know how to make it up to you guys! I... "Relax, Geezer. Why don't you sit back and let me take it from here?" Man, you are a life saver, Tommy. Take it away.<br />
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"Thanks, Geezer. The Mitsubishi Uni M3-552 is an entry level drafting pencil, but it has a feature or two that make it stand out among starter pencils. It's body is plastic which helps make it light weight, but the grip is made of a lightweight metal, probably aluminum. The grip screws onto the body just below the lead grade indicator. It is nicely knurled and has a very good gripping surface. The tip is probably non-magnetic stainless steel while the lead sleeve has a ting magnetic attraction. Both are chromed and highly polished. So are the end cap and the spring steel pocket clip. With the black body the pencil has a classic look."<br />
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"Now one of the nice features of the M3-552 is the lead grade indicator. It is made of a colored plastic, in this case, yellow, indicating the lead size*. The ring is made with a gap. like a split ring, where the window is. The exterior of the ring is round but the interior is octagonal with a series of de-tents near the edge of the lower end of the ring. A set of corresponding circular raised bumps are on the pencils' body. The lead sizes, from 2B to 4H, are imprinted in a silver color on a black self sticking band and placed on the pencils' body. When the ring is placed on the pencil the LGI turns a set distance set by the de-tent system exposing one of the lead grades. Unlike the LGI on some more expensive pencils the ring stays put once it is set, yet it is easily reset when desired. This is the very best LGI that I have encountered to date."<br />
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"The grip is easily removed without removing the tip of the pencil. Just why the pencil was made with this feature is unclear. However the design leaves the possibility of different grips wide open. I can see how easily a variety of different grips being available for the pencil, like a rubber grip, a silicone grip, a plastic grip, a fatter metal grip, etc. Just why this potential has not been exploited is beyond me. While loosening the grip will make turning the LGI it is not necessary to do so as the LGI will turn without loosening the grip albeit with a little more effort. The reason that the grip can be removed over the tip is because the tip is the same diameter as the pencils' body beneath the grip. Now that I think about it the reason that the grip is designed in this way is so that it can be loosened when setting the LGI! Now what is it they say, something about learning something new..."<br />
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"The M3-522 is so light that despite its' being a little nose heavy it hardly feels like it. The pencil feels light in the hand and writes almost effortlessly. The unusual knurling on the grip, broken by 10 horizontal lines, is not only aesthetically pleasing but is quite functional as well. It provides a nice gripping surface without being overly rough. The lead reservoir is large enough to hold enough lead for days and even weeks of writing. The bright chromed push button is adorned with the lead size impressed into the top of it. Pressing it is almost as effortlessly as writing with the pencil itself and just two presses of the bush button exposes enough lead to start writing. There is an eraser under the push button, but as geezer says, such erasers are useless and should only serve to hold a clean out rod, which the pencil does not come with. You'll need to supply your own."<br />
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"A good way to get 2 stand alone clean out rods, one for .4 mm and below as well as one for .05 mm and above and get a set of 5 erasers that will fit the M3-552 pencil (I knew you would be using the eraser that come with the pencil) you can buy, from, <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>, a set for one of the Pilot pencils. Its' the MS-10 box set. It comes with 5 erasers clad in a plastic holder that just fits the reservoir tube of the M6-552 plus 2 wire clean out rods. The green box that they come in is a handy storage case as well. This way, for under 2 bucks US you can get both clean out rods and erasers. Every time that you have to buy easers you'll get a new set of clean out rods. Believe me, for 0.4 mm and 0.3 mm lead sizes these rods are a must."<br />
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So for a good entry level drafting pencil, or just a good all around writing instrument (especially in the larger diameter lead sizes) do not over look the 522 series of Drafting pencils from Mitsubishi/uni. These and many other fine drawing and writing instruments can be found at our friends at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>.The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-50989480090915800182014-08-06T03:44:00.000-04:002014-08-06T22:06:29.839-04:00GoPens.com Pen/Pencil TraysRegular readers of my little blog know that over the years I have come up with various ways of securing my precious (and expensive) drafting & mechanical pencils in converted boxes. I've converted over a dozen boxes of various types into pencil boxes using foam board, fabric, vinyl,, string, clear vinyl sheeting, and wood. I've glued, stitched and used every method I know of to secure my pencils so that they can be displayed yet not move. My last method was no better than my first. In general I would always use some sort of material to secure the pencils to a fabric covered foam board. No matter how I tried I could never get the loops so that they held the pencils in place without them moving and touching one another without getting them too tight on some pencils and too loose on others. Part of the problem is that pencils vary in diameter from pencil to pencil and even along the length of most pencils. And mechanical pencils, especially drafting pencils, being constructed with lots of 90 degree angles instead of nice smooth rounded edges, getting the pencils in and out of restraints always caused problems! In at least one case, the fabric I had chosen as a base material was so abrasive and the loops so restrictive that it wore a flat spot on the rubber grip! And in my last such box I had to make two differently sized loops for differently sized pencils. But still the rubber grip from one pencil stretched out so much that it was ruined! It just seamed that I just could not build a box that would secure my pencils and let me have instant access to them at the same time.<br />
<br />
But the answer was really simple! A pen/pencil box made just for such devices. And they make them. They make lots of different ones. Small ones. Big ones. Plain ones. Fancy ones. Some with a single try. Some with multiple trays. All are expensive! All out of my price range. But for sometime now, I mean for several years, I have been admiring the pen trays available form <a href="http://gopens.com/">gopens.com</a>. These trays are made from plastic and coated with a fine layer of some sort of material resembling suede. It reminds me of the stuff one model car maker included in one of their car models. It was a small packet of fabric shavings that, when applied to the interior of the model, made the seats and dash look like it was covered with lush fabric. It is meant to cushion the pens/pencils as well as help keep them from sliding all over the place like they would on slick plastic. The trays are advertised as being 12-1/8" by 16-3/8", with 24 slots. That meant to me that each tray could hold 2 pencils per slot for a total of 48 pencils per tray. So I would need at least 2 trays. They come in Black, Red, Green, Burgundy, Blue and Gray. Well recently we had a bit of "spare" cash so I ordered 4 in gray, the most neutral color. They arrived in just 3 business days!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_-7Soe0I9rICAd2seS7lMipGrbtFHNaoyVFTwU7DXWQ09V6wnXT39zVmpnmBXiv54AydOge-Wo3mE5aLA1LtwOeDfSgeOguS9E9Rjvu3E0NUhrAmGLXfzsAhFkt7LuqqppKD9NsrsqY/s1600/Tray.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_-7Soe0I9rICAd2seS7lMipGrbtFHNaoyVFTwU7DXWQ09V6wnXT39zVmpnmBXiv54AydOge-Wo3mE5aLA1LtwOeDfSgeOguS9E9Rjvu3E0NUhrAmGLXfzsAhFkt7LuqqppKD9NsrsqY/s1600/Tray.jpg" height="235" width="320" /></a></div>
When they arrived I measured them to discover that they measure in actuality 12" by 16-3/8"! I was counting on that 1/8" as a cushion so that I could place the pencils 2 to a slot!. But I worried in vain as with even the longest of my pencils there was enough of a cushion, barely enough, but enough.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpsPCQt05XcBy4VHPZP9kh74cOrF8UyTAAvtkvf1ErBr6v4YkdSAByk58SmcLh5vUqlFwSZeIkSz7NGJjSsbKr24dtdiySJ4RBPq6zavgovVz8Q_GkGAC2oYkhiKGU5pKU3RrH35JPRM/s1600/end+of+trayxx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpsPCQt05XcBy4VHPZP9kh74cOrF8UyTAAvtkvf1ErBr6v4YkdSAByk58SmcLh5vUqlFwSZeIkSz7NGJjSsbKr24dtdiySJ4RBPq6zavgovVz8Q_GkGAC2oYkhiKGU5pKU3RrH35JPRM/s1600/end+of+trayxx.jpg" height="157" width="200" /></a><br />
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Now I had some very nice trays in which to lay my pencils but no box to put the trays in! What a quandary! Not really. I knew when I purchased them that I was probably going to make some boxes out of foam board. So, with hobby knife in one hand and a straight edge in another I beset the poor unsuspecting foam board and cut out a top, bottom and 4 sides from a single sheet of foam board. Little did I know that sheets of foam board would give up their shapes as I experimented with design, form and function! At one point I even laminated sheets of corrugated cardboard together in order to construct a box when I ran out of foam board and could not run to Wal-Mart to get more! Such was my frenzy! I was a madman possessed with a single purpose! To make the perfect pencil box!... To bad I was working with foam board and not wood! Oh well! We make do when we have to!<br />
<br />
The final 2 boxes ended up being constructed the same way. One was a retrofit. Basically they are just a simple box with a removable top secured with small super strong magnets in top and bottom edges with the addition of 4 straps of felt using the same magnets and strips of mild steel. I didn't want the tops growing wings, or feet and moving off on their own. The trays fit into the boxes with a snug fit but with enough wiggle room for me to remove them should I have too. And I had to! About that later. Once I had felt that I had the interior finished I set about decorating the exterior of the boxes while I contemplated how to keep the pencils inside from sliding into one another. You see, I did not want to cut the tray inserts in half! Why, you ask? Well... They were just to darn pretty as a whole unit! Anyway, I spent the next several days letting my artistic spirit loose on the boxes I had made. Poor boxes...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlwFJST9BSbCqqFMxnVx3-Tcb1Eb64frc-BkzO31xhL2ua5jxl_ZdgrGWEgBh7qHVMPNWHgIEBBgx_NH9oVwF5pa9XxKnQZS11mi0-pPzOx-U45MdWRzRcKXYD_zziVuptDHw1_9QoF0/s1600/sie+by+side+big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlwFJST9BSbCqqFMxnVx3-Tcb1Eb64frc-BkzO31xhL2ua5jxl_ZdgrGWEgBh7qHVMPNWHgIEBBgx_NH9oVwF5pa9XxKnQZS11mi0-pPzOx-U45MdWRzRcKXYD_zziVuptDHw1_9QoF0/s1600/sie+by+side+big.jpg" height="141" width="400" /></a></div>
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What I used to decorate the boxes was a mixture of colored card stock, various stickers and florescent and phosphorescent paints! I've never outgrown my likeness of florescent/black light colors and decorations. My computer room/workroom at one time had as many as 7 working black lights. Alas in all but one the bulbs have burnt out. Never fear, though I have plans for a really nice black light/white light set up. But I digress. I had a lot of fun squeezing out the dimensional paint. Even more fun looking at it under my remaining black light. in the photo above the box on the left is shown in regular light. The box on the right is shown in black light (ultraviolet). While the phosphorescent paint does glow a bit in UV light, the UV light charges the paint better than regular fluorescent light.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA-F4ftYEVidCNn35LYWObvaEhweVoGpfRh1It8KX03SFLW2G4oNa-Bvh_Vs7pKT87Pv0KplHnN7JOXgJO2YIdHqtDTNIIWZnNnlpD_OF-U9ghR_AtQ0UrSczGCmkHvTQSj8XidPPJN2I/s1600/divider.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA-F4ftYEVidCNn35LYWObvaEhweVoGpfRh1It8KX03SFLW2G4oNa-Bvh_Vs7pKT87Pv0KplHnN7JOXgJO2YIdHqtDTNIIWZnNnlpD_OF-U9ghR_AtQ0UrSczGCmkHvTQSj8XidPPJN2I/s1600/divider.jpg" height="195" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVjjg9r46GyjKBlgwsTjhe3K9WyHPUvD-u5xJL8PWHUOQ9ycsDqUz0Y01n6XrhG8X6T5ymPahCXxNIicOfHfk83g_xot8JazuBDNkYXDo_5TEiAMLM-CGqc5sLX1R7gMl6hdPphZAbNY/s1600/In+side+box+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVjjg9r46GyjKBlgwsTjhe3K9WyHPUvD-u5xJL8PWHUOQ9ycsDqUz0Y01n6XrhG8X6T5ymPahCXxNIicOfHfk83g_xot8JazuBDNkYXDo_5TEiAMLM-CGqc5sLX1R7gMl6hdPphZAbNY/s1600/In+side+box+1.jpg" height="235" width="320" /></a></div>
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So much for the outside. I'll bet all of you want to see the inside, don't 'cha? Before I show you the inside, remember earlier that I wrote that I built the boxes so that I wouldn't have to cut the trays?... Well, try as I did there just seemed like there was no other elegant way to keep the pencils from hitting each than to halve the trays at the 6" mark and insert a divider between the opposing pencils. It almost hurt to cut those beautiful trays in half! On the website the owner, Gary, recommends the use of clear plastic edge protectors, the kind used on the edges of walls to protect wallpaper from being scuffed up. But these are approximately 1” by 1”, which makes them far to tall to use in my homemade pencil box. So I cut strips of gray card stock and folded it over to form a more ridged boarder. I cut it the correct height and joined the too short pieces together then inserted them between the halves of the trays. The fit was a tight one for the OHTO Super Promechas as they are the longest pencils that I have, to date. They measure just a 1/16<sup>th</sup> of an inch shy of 6”! But as long as they don’t move very much and are not restrained in any other way, I’m happy! In fact I have to admit that now that the deed is done, it doesn’t look as bad as I had feared. The card stock is quite a close match in color to the trays and it acts as an effective barrier between pencils in the same column. </div>
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All in all I am quite pleased with the trays that I bought form GoPens.com. They were easy to cut, as advertised and they look great! I just wish that I had had some nice ¼” cedar with which to make a nice pencil box with four drawers. I’d bisect each tray with a ¼” piece of cedar. That would be so sweet.</div>
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But even if you can only make boxes the way I do, it’s well worth the money to purchase the pen/pencil trays from GoPens.com. Short of routing out custom grooves from a piece of ½” cedar they are about as good as you’re going to get.</div>
The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-32332898381404581812014-07-28T20:12:00.000-04:002014-07-29T05:26:51.559-04:00OHTO Super Promecha PM-1500S vs OHTO Super Promecha PM-1500P<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYAAMfkwrz9qHczxY40fEKuKt0oJlnp0-kcxESW02eZu_9lCiUGqe-CVZ3pQpinN-AGAcXtTpLv66Ogof9e3NLw1HniPqFGSoNq_uxj_00ofmKeatmgnphDVUiGBSmvEx6pTnuLdnkn0/s1600/new+2+kind.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYAAMfkwrz9qHczxY40fEKuKt0oJlnp0-kcxESW02eZu_9lCiUGqe-CVZ3pQpinN-AGAcXtTpLv66Ogof9e3NLw1HniPqFGSoNq_uxj_00ofmKeatmgnphDVUiGBSmvEx6pTnuLdnkn0/s1600/new+2+kind.jpg" height="640" width="128" /></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">In 1929 The OHTO CO., LTD was born
in Japan. The world of pens and pencils would be transformed with the
inventions and innovations that the OHTO company would come up with over the
years. Unfortunately all I can find out about the company is on their website.
And almost all of the info is about pens! So the history lesson that I was
going to give about the company has run a rye. Fortunately all I really need to
know about the 2 pencils in this review is information that I can glean from
the pencils themselves! Such is the nature of a review. So I hauled out my
trusty instruments and did a few measurements (including a new one, by request,
that will become a standard part of my stats from here on) and manipulated the
pencils a bit, tearing them down as gar as I dare, chasing springs and small
parts as they succumb to the force of gravity! Finding them on the floor of my
computer room I retrieve them and proceed to photograph them, in part and as an
entire, fully assembled pencil. Once happy with the photos that I have taken, I
put the pencils back, safe and sound. into their place in my Pencil Box, and
breath a sigh of relief! My babies are now snuggled safe along with all their
brothers and sisters... Whoa! I need a more manly hobby!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Anyway... At some unknown point in time, unknown to me that
is, the OHTO company decided to make mechanical pencils. Then one proud
day for the OHTO company their first drafting pencil is born. And the
rest is history... I just don't know exactly what that history is!
It's a good thing that the history of the OHTO company is not the subject of
this post!... Getting on with it... In this post I will look,
objectively, at both the old and the new Super Promechas form OHTO, comparing
the two in order to see witch is the better pencil. Just because it's the
newest doesn't mean it's the best. Sometimes great features are dropped
from a product in the newer version making it, in my mind, a less useful
product.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Let's see, where to start? STATS! That's a good place to
start from. Stats have pulled my sorry typing fingers out of more than
one blog... Not really. Stats are stats and are pretty dry.
But I can try to throw some water on them to see if I can make them a bit more
palatable. The PM-1500S measures 150 mm over all, from top of the push
button to the tip of the lead sleeve (fully extended). The PM-1500P beats
that my a silly little millimeter at 151 mm long. Hum...
interesting, but not earth shaking. The grip of the PM-1500S
measures 11 mm in diameter while the grip on the PM-1500P comes in at 10.5
mm. That doesn't seem like much, but it looks and feels slimmer. Because
of the beefier construction and materials used the PM-1500S it is the
heavier of the two, weighing in at whopping 28.4 grans compared to the PM-1500Ps'
18.6 grams! And it's balancing point (measured for the pencils'
tip) is only 55 mm while the PM-1500Ps' balance point is 68.5 mm.
Now a new measurement that I am introducing with this comparison is the length
from where the grip/tip join/meet to the tip of the pencil. This is by
request. The info may help some people who write with a very low grip
make a more informed decision when buying a pencil. For the PM-1500S this
distance is 19 mm and for the new kid on the block, 18.5 mm. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />
Now, what in the world are you going to do with all this raw data? Beats
me! But for me I'll try and use some of it to show how each pencil
not only looks different form the other, but how it makes them perform.
With it's larger diameter grip, it's heavier weight and it's far forward
balance, the PM-1500S feels like writing with a Mac truck Talk about
throwing your weight around! Now, for some people this is not only not a
disadvantage, but an advantage. There are those who like the feel of the
weight in their hand. They can and have mastered controlling the weight
that this pencil has. But if you have or want to write with a light
touch, then this pencil will give you a work out over time. The majority
of it's weight being so close to the paper it tends to want to bury it's nose
into it. On the other had, the slimmer grip, lighter weight and better
balance means that the PM-1500P is far easier to control and less tiring on the
hand. The pencil wants to glide across the paper with a lot less effort than
its' elder brother. In my opinion the PM-1500P is an easier pencil to
use.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCixvGZDYbVgouFzocevbt4OCigSJDM4YmesAaQL1Dza466loNhh_PvDbAqaIFq8n-dn33t_4NyL7Vlj7DwjrIzsLsQpkfY0XpS7nbfF9G4eG-Kh67mEde6ONBiVw2YC8qtOJLi9HIopg/s1600/2+tips2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCixvGZDYbVgouFzocevbt4OCigSJDM4YmesAaQL1Dza466loNhh_PvDbAqaIFq8n-dn33t_4NyL7Vlj7DwjrIzsLsQpkfY0XpS7nbfF9G4eG-Kh67mEde6ONBiVw2YC8qtOJLi9HIopg/s1600/2+tips2.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwcrcAnPcWBRuCn27rol78_9KI-LAQpGxwT2TgEVjEtXXXtLEWsvHQQNdP27mdEypj7RlHonPjbdNeDGUgCFuUjXEwZRLFMmbbRx6Uyl137V61coT6qkK39qWZoA7yKugkLCUArmheKY/s1600/2+wheels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwcrcAnPcWBRuCn27rol78_9KI-LAQpGxwT2TgEVjEtXXXtLEWsvHQQNdP27mdEypj7RlHonPjbdNeDGUgCFuUjXEwZRLFMmbbRx6Uyl137V61coT6qkK39qWZoA7yKugkLCUArmheKY/s1600/2+wheels.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Now let us examine the physical
differences between the two pencils. The most noticeable difference is
the 4 black "O"-rings around the PM-1500Ps' body above the lead
increment adjustment wheel. These appear to be there to aid in gripping
the body when adjustments have to be maid in either the lead increment settings
and the length of the lead sleeve exposure. The second most blatant difference
is the tip of the PM-1500S has an adjustment wheel inside it! This is
used to set the amount of lead sleeve exposure! Huh? But that can
be set simply by turning the grip until the desired </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">amount of lead sleeve has been exposed! This is
probably why this unneeded feature was dropped on the next generation Super
Promecha, the PM-1500P.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCq_9nBolwfwVP7B4cjmH75qcUJrCyd7DgFBskLvu5O78OlgWPozK9BoAFpRZxOMrST8OVOshubw5i8W0WetV0wcHtgLcrtGaHwlt3vuYnNSQoQABa1ljp5TXmR8rDWBgRcICvxC_camA/s1600/2+bodies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCq_9nBolwfwVP7B4cjmH75qcUJrCyd7DgFBskLvu5O78OlgWPozK9BoAFpRZxOMrST8OVOshubw5i8W0WetV0wcHtgLcrtGaHwlt3vuYnNSQoQABa1ljp5TXmR8rDWBgRcICvxC_camA/s1600/2+bodies.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"> The spring set up in the tip of the 2 pencils are different, of course. The PM-1500S front end has the tip with a spring loaded wheel that controls the amount of lead sleeve that is exposed. right behind the small diameter spring that sets the tension for the wheel is the spring that sets the tension for the grip and it's setting of the amount of lead sleeve that is exposed. So caution is needed if you ever have to remove the tip of the PM-1500S in order to clear a lead jam. Remove the tip slowly and set the tip and springs aside as a unit as that is how they will come. The lead exposure wheel and spring are a captive unit inside the body of the pencil and is not user serviceable. </span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYnuENBMQDupfmiTEr3BLAlVH6UBm79YBseTC_8Q34cBVpcwz8XlrolUn7oyLZv-T3yiY-3KXsOUvL59Jns8hQm0biapirdrtPMdgAN7XcURY_59nwoA1CdBY1nNjWoaakKyNiYqraw-Y/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYnuENBMQDupfmiTEr3BLAlVH6UBm79YBseTC_8Q34cBVpcwz8XlrolUn7oyLZv-T3yiY-3KXsOUvL59Jns8hQm0biapirdrtPMdgAN7XcURY_59nwoA1CdBY1nNjWoaakKyNiYqraw-Y/s1600/Untitled.jpg" height="249" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Springs in the front end of the PM-1500P are one less that in the PM-1500S yet both are user accessible. The first spring, the larger of the two, sets the tension for the amount of lead sleeve exposure and is in the same place as the on PM-1500S. The second spring sets the tension for the amount of lead that is exposed and can be found under the lead sleeve and is slim enough to fit snuggly against the clutch assembly.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">When removing the tips of the pencils, as you will have to do when removing a lead jam, first run the grip all the way down so that the leaf sleeve is folly hidden. Then slowly unscrew the tip, minding the springs, and set the tip/springs aside in a safe place. Then run the grip back up the pencil , exposing the lead sleeve. Carefully unscrew the lead sleeve, minding any springs, setting the spring(s) aside in a safe place. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">To remove a lead jam, remove the push button, then remove the eraser with the clean out rod attached to it, replace the push button, (don't want the lead escaping) then lay the pencil aside. Next, place the bottom of the lead sleeve on a solid surface and while holding it there with one hand use the COL attached to the eraser to remove the lead jam by passing the COL all the way through the lead sleeve by inserting it into the lead sleeve at the tip. Once the jam is clear replace the lead sleeve and tip, along with any associated springs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">All in all I is the bloggers opinion, based on the stats and facts, that the PM-1500P is a superior pencil to the PM-1500S in every way, except one, the lead grade indicator. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">While they may look exactly alike the are not. The PM-1500S, to me, has a much easier LGI to set than the PM-1500P. Simply hold the knurled "ring" and loosen the push button top, set the lead designation, then tighten. To set the LGI on the PM-1500S, You have to unscrew the PB top, rotate the LGI window to the correct setting, then hold the Push button to the window while screwing it in place w/out changing the setting! </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Bottom line? With the one minor exception the OHTO PM-15ooP Super Promecha is the superior over the OHTO PM-1500S Super Promecha. It's a good thing as this is the current line of OHTO Super Promecha Drafting pencils! Both old and new Super Promecha comes in 5 different led grade/sizes, 0.3 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.5 mm, o.7 mm and 0.9 mm sizes.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBGN-Harw1GCk_g05pgUqYuq6koIrSIh8c0x2cauXZBYw-n48caHWorrPqmzJq9rcMzxmC2oDpLbXwJRZ5d_15VC3ZFkSO9b4b6Hvnj4_XoWRJB8MWGwNwmPEWxNAvqnJX-y2rlxRJyE/s1600/OHTO+a2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBGN-Harw1GCk_g05pgUqYuq6koIrSIh8c0x2cauXZBYw-n48caHWorrPqmzJq9rcMzxmC2oDpLbXwJRZ5d_15VC3ZFkSO9b4b6Hvnj4_XoWRJB8MWGwNwmPEWxNAvqnJX-y2rlxRJyE/s1600/OHTO+a2.jpg" height="119" width="400" /></a></div>
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Many thanks for JetPen,com for the provision, over several years, of most of the PM-1500P series pencils in this post. All the current PM-1500P series pencils are available as well as the entire line of OHTO Promecha and Super Promecha drafting pencils are currently available from our friends at Jetpens. com. Please visit jetpens.com. for all your hard to find Japanese stationary items as well as many other fine Japanese items.</div>
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The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-31829976847738470902014-04-12T22:46:00.000-04:002014-04-12T22:46:09.745-04:00rotring rapid PRO: Black vs Silver<br />
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Everyone has their favorite. I know that I do. I'm sure that you do, too! And everyone thinks that their choice is the best. And they are right. From their point of view that is. We all have our reasons for choosing our favorite and each has it's own merit. Sometimes our choice is not so much wrong as inappropriate. Maybe it's the occasion, maybe it's the season, maybe simply it's just all wrong at the moment for whatever reason. But when it comes to which rotring rapid Pro to choose, well there just isn't a "right" or "wrong" or a "good" or "bad" choice! Whichever one you might choose you have made the "perfect" choice for you.<br />
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When it comes to elegance there are few colors (or lack thereof) that can top black. There is just something mysterious and alluring about the color black that always makes us look twice! Especially something satin black, like the rotring rapid PRO in satin black. Pure black does not reflect light, it absorbs it. But few things are pure black, like space. Even so it's hard to see details of something black. This is what makes a black object so alluring and mysterious.<br />
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Now when you want to be noticed right away, if you want to show some bling, then the metallic colors is the way to go and silver, white gold and platinum are very hard to beat when it comes to flash, sparkle and bling! An object in a bright metal color stands out like nothing else can! You can see it and make out details clean across the room! Such a color is in-your-face and makes the bold statement, "I am here! Deal with it!" Unlike black, which sets in the background, awaiting to lure you in, Silver tones announce their intentions!<br />
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OK, so much for the romantic verbiage. Lets get down to some hard facts about the rotring rapid PRO, shall we? In either satin black of two tone silver this is a pencil that demands respect. Made of solid brass then coated in either a black or silver finish (just what process is used I have been unable to discover nor can I find out just what the coating is. Often metals are plated with another metal so the surface can be treated with a process that the underlying metal can not be treated with. Often the coating is aluminum which can be anodized or heavy anodized a variety of different colors or treated in another fashion). The satin black finish has an ever so slightly rougher texture to it than does the satin finish of the silver model.<br />
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However, to my delicate and sensitive finger tips, (stop laughing), the teeth on the grip of the silver model feel just a tad sharper than those on it's ebony brother. This is probably due to the heavier coating on the black pencil. Personally I prefer the sharper teeth as they afford me a better grip. My finger tips may not be delicate but they are certainly not grizzled with calluses and they are still sensitive enough to feel the difference between the two grip surfaces. This is one reason that I prefer the silver finish over the black. Some of the others are it's over all look and the fact that minor scratches tend not to show up as well as they do on the black pencil.<br />
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One thing that I have noticed regardless of the color of the pencil and that's dirt in the grip's teeth. I happen to think that knurling, also called cross hatching, is a very effective way to achieve a good gripping surface on the grip of a mechanical pencil. But (there's always a but), it's also the worst surface to keep clean. <br />
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The points, a natural product of the cross hatching, scrape the surface of the skin, pulling off dead skin every time the grip is touched. This dead skin lodges in the grooves created by the Knurling process and build up. The result is an ugly discolored grip! While it's bad on a silver or gold tone grip, it's worse on a black or dark grey colored grip. On the lighter pencils the discoloration dulls the luster of the metal and on the darker colors it lightens them up and makes the points look worn.<br />
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There are ways of cleaning this disgusting stuff out of the grooves of the grip. One effective way is to brush it away using a short, stiff bristled brush and some alcohol. From a hardware store purchase a good quality "acid" brush. This is a natural fiber brush with bristles 1-1/2" long and has a sheet steel handle rolled into a tube. A good quality brush can cost $1.00 or more. The bristles are thin enough to get into the grooves of the grip but they are too long! Carefully, using a good pair of fabric shears, cut the bristles down to 1/2" long. A good straight cut is what you want. From a drug store or department store purchase a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). 70% is the most common strength for isopropyl alcohol is 71% so you may have to 91% it at a drug store. The higher the percentage the more alcohol and less water in the solution. More is better! You will also need a lint free cloth, like a man's cotton bandanna, washed several times to remove the sizing. DO NOT use fabric softener when cleaning and drying the bandanna as the chemicals in the softener retard the bandanna's ability to absorb liquids.<br />
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Make sure that the newly made cleaning brush is clean and has not been used for anything else. Pour a small amount of 91% isopropyl alcohol into a small disposable container. Dip the cleaning brush in the alcohol and clean the brush using a paper towel. Remove the grip from the pencil and set the rest of the pencil aside. Hold the grip in a fold of the bandanna between thumb and forefinger of your opposite hand then dip the brush in the alcohol. With a sweeping motion and traveling along one set of grooves, using medium pressure and turning the grip in the opposite direction, brush the alcohol into the grooves of the grip. Be sure not to touch the metal of the pencil with the metal of the brush or you could scratch the finish! You may have to use a light scrubbing action to remove old, stubborn crud from the grip. Use the bandanna to dry the grip. Then check it to see if the grip is clean. If not, repeat the procedure in the stubborn area until it's clean. Be very careful not to over clean as this can damage the finish.<br />
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Cleaning my leave the finish on the grip clean, but dull. To shine it up a tad, apply a liberal coating of Armor All on a cotton swab until the entire grip is coated in the milky white stuff. Then use the bandanna to dry the grip by simply rolling it in the folds of the bandanna. <em> Do Not </em>dry all the Armor All off the grip. Allow some to dry. This will give the metal a shine of satin look in some cases. Do not clean the grip too often as this will help erode the finish more quickly!<br />
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So, the choice is yours. Elegant Black or Stunning Silver. Either way you can't go wrong when picking a rotring rapid Pro as your instrument of expression!<br />
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Thanks ever so much to our friends at <a href="http://www.jetpens.com/" target="_blank">JetPens.com</a>.com for the pencils used in this post.<br />
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<br />The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-82442263932998183322014-03-08T16:09:00.000-05:002014-03-08T16:09:12.138-05:00Entry Level Pencil: The rotring 300, 0.3 mm Drafting Pencil<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06f2ooajqWsI99CaftoL0oLScS8kWMLT3LeLaQQZmnOhFyejbF7fZ1Pgd7F_1tCcb3O3TW_DjqUz664YiW1nSmmtPpT7hbQluh1fPNQNkv6xcN_thE0N7fmMfJ1Poc6lWzresCu905MA/s1600/rotring+300+Standing+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06f2ooajqWsI99CaftoL0oLScS8kWMLT3LeLaQQZmnOhFyejbF7fZ1Pgd7F_1tCcb3O3TW_DjqUz664YiW1nSmmtPpT7hbQluh1fPNQNkv6xcN_thE0N7fmMfJ1Poc6lWzresCu905MA/s1600/rotring+300+Standing+up.jpg" height="640" width="100" /></a></div>
Every mechanical pencil maker has at least one entry level pencil. Some may have more if they have different lines of pencils. Most entry level pencils are much lower in cost than the next pencil in the series. They are usually made of plastic with a metal tip and lead sleeve. The pocket clip can be integral with the body or removable. They most often lack features like a metal grip and a lead grade indicator. Their internal mechanism is generally simple in design and made of plastic or polymers except for the clutch mechanism which is almost exclusively made of brass. Construction can be a little less than desirable but generally they are well made as they represent the company and are often the only item from the company the user ever sees.<br />
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The rotring 300 is rotring's entry level pencil in the numbered series of pencils. The next up is the 500, then the best known of the series, the 600 followed by the rapid PRO and then the top of the line 800. At one time, when the pencils were made in Germany there was a 400 and a 700 in the series. However these are no longer produced and fetch a pretty penny when found. The rapid PRO, cost wise, fits in between the 600 and the 800. This sort of fills the gap left by the out of production 700. There does not appear that there is a replacement for the 400.<br />
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As far as entry level pencils (ELP) go the rotring 300 is a slightly above average pencil. It features a design that is reminiscent of the 500 and 600 pencils. While the later mentioned 500 and 600 pencils have removable metal grip areas the 300 does not. The body is a single piece made of plastic, only the tip is removable and made of chromed brass and stainless steel. The push button cap is also made of plastic while the removable pocket clip is made of chromed metal. The pencil features a lead grade indicator which is something usually found on higher end pencils. Unlike the 500, 3600 and 800 the lead grade indicator on the 300 is made of plastic, not metal. There is no detent, but there is enough friction to hold the indicator on station during use.<br />
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The 300 breaks down into 4 major components: The main body which includes the pocket clip and the internal mechanism; the tip; the eraser and the cap or push button. The internal mechanism at first appears to come out of the body tube but is stopped part way out. The lead reservoir is transparent plastic while the clutch assembly is wrapped in white plastic and adhered to the lead reservoir. There is no clean out rod stuck to the eraser. The plastic cap fits snugly onto the lead reservoir covering the eraser. The lead reservoir has a plug in the top of it with a small hole restricting the flow of lead into the reservoir to a single piece at a time. The eraser is a standard size white vinyl eraser available just about anywhere. It is surrounded by a thin silver tone piece of sheet metal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjijwTCYWsebpaWZweCe4o17FSvLs8iE0Yhhd4yr_ACusEpCGEFplEmaUApYha8spLDFoiW6HjRBAvz7yspr_Cq0wNAJmJRvjj0oXk4_oU13TuU_4klBk9f2GCbfTv8IyhcciJi1kDWzHI/s1600/rotring+300+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjijwTCYWsebpaWZweCe4o17FSvLs8iE0Yhhd4yr_ACusEpCGEFplEmaUApYha8spLDFoiW6HjRBAvz7yspr_Cq0wNAJmJRvjj0oXk4_oU13TuU_4klBk9f2GCbfTv8IyhcciJi1kDWzHI/s1600/rotring+300+5.jpg" height="238" width="640" /></a><br />
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The exterior of the 300 is a semi gloss black with red figures on one of the six sides of the body, just under the pocket clip. The grip area is cylindrical and molded to simulate knurling. It is not very sharp but it works because of the pencils very light. The pocket clip is removable, but I would never do so as it has to be pulled over the plastic LGI which is also molded to simulate knurling. The pocket clip would, I'm afraid, ruin the LGI by scratching it or gouging it. The tip is small with not a lot of gripping area. Removing it the first time or later if it had been replaces to tightly, will require the assistance of a rubber jar opener. When replacing it tighten it only enough to keep it on.<br />
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Now for some of that dry stuff, the stats. The pencil weighs a mere 8.4 grams, making it a light weight indeed. It is 141 mm long, has a diameter of 9 mm across the flats and has a balance point 72 mm from the tip of the pencil which gives it practically perfect balance. 2 strong presses of the cap expels enough lead to write with. The lead reservoir has room for a full container of lead (12 pieces) but it will have to be fed in one piece at a time. The mechanism is fairly quite due in part to it's almost complete plastic construction. Should you have a lead jam, common with 0.3 mm pencils, you'll have to supply your own clean out rod as the 400 does not come with one.<br />
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Being such a light pencil, many will find it an enjoyable experience to write with the 400. I however find it a bit light for my taste. I have to hold the pencil too tightly for extended use which hurts my hand. Holding the pencil higher up at the point where the body meets the grip area helps but when using HB lead the print seems too light. The use of grade B lead will help out also by making a darker impression with less pressure.<br />
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Overall I like the look of the 300 as it has the appearance of the beloved 600. The pencil still come in 0.3 mm but for how long as the 600 comes only in 0.5 and 0.7 mm lead sizes. While the extremely light weight of the 300 may be heaven for some users, but not for me. I prefer the feel of the 600 because it has some heft to it.. That said, I think the rotring 300 is a dandy little entry level pencil that offers the user features found in some higher cost pencils without the higher price tag. It's light weight makes it easy to carry in the breast pocket of a shirt without the need of a pocket protector. So if you are in the market for a lightweight 0.3 mm drafting pencil that offers nice features then seriously consider the roting 300.<br />
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The rotring 300 and the entire numbered series of rotring drafting pencils can be seen and purchased from our friends at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">Jetpens.com.</a>The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-17878331691430329202014-01-16T02:29:00.000-05:002014-01-18T07:11:37.626-05:00roting rapid PRO 0.5 mm Drafting Pencil in Black<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEildFzPncKUkWuPkecLVf1d-5QwxDbTAL1u3QsPXexxMxb7LQwA6ydS9bI83xGx62qBSJ-TJfT0SRqjjZs2vgMnX8e7-C-FNL5vyMaJnX-D2nKyMFM7ENNmREtUsYqiFFx_btifiTNXqRY/s1600/RP001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEildFzPncKUkWuPkecLVf1d-5QwxDbTAL1u3QsPXexxMxb7LQwA6ydS9bI83xGx62qBSJ-TJfT0SRqjjZs2vgMnX8e7-C-FNL5vyMaJnX-D2nKyMFM7ENNmREtUsYqiFFx_btifiTNXqRY/s1600/RP001.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
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Grace, elegance, sophistication, beauty, no, I am not talking about my lovey wife, this time, although she is all these things, I'm talking about a drafting pencil. Namely the rotring rapid PRO 0.5 mm in Black. Like my lovely wife, the rotring rapid Pro is all these things and more.<br />
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First introduced in 2010 it's price range puts it in between the rotring 600 and the rotring 800 drafting pencils, the spot once held by the now discontinued and rare rotring 700 drafting pencil. So I am going to take a wild guess here, mind you it just that, and say that the rotring rapid PRO was designed to fill the gap between the rotring 600 and the rotring 800. But I could be wrong. At any rate it fits the gap well.<br />
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Now, why would I apply such words like grace, elegance, sophistication and beauty to a drafting pencil? Because they fit. The rotring rapid PRO is everything one would expect from the International known and loved rotring family of pencils and pens. It has graceful lines, is n elegant design, has a sophisticated look and is a beauty to look at and use.<br />
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Yeah, I know what you're thinking! You're thinking that because he likes drafting pencils and rotrings that he's going to give this one a glossy review! Well, I could see why you would think that way, but you'd be wrong! I'm going to give it a satiny review. Get it? Satiny review! The pencil's a satin black... (Sigh) Why do I even bother?<br />
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OK, enough dry humor. Lets get down to some hard facts....<br />
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The Construction.. The rotring rapid PRO is of all metal construction on the exterior and a combination of metal and plastic on the interior. The metals are aluminum plate over brass (my best guess) which is anodized a satin black. The barrel is hexagonal while the grip assembly is round. The top of the pencil where the pocket clip resides is round as is the push button.<br />
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The Look. The finish is a satin black with a smooth texture on the barrel and a rough texture on the grip portion of the grip assembly. This is due to tiny spiral cross hatching intended to provide the surface a good grip. A red plastic ring separates the grip assembly from the barrel. This is part of the interior assembly. On the left side of the pencil, in gloss gray paint, are the rotring logo and the name of the pencil, "rapid PRO" and the lead, size, "0.5" (mm). Embossed on the pocket clip is the company logo. All in all a rather attractive pencil.<br />
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Point of Interest. The "red ring" around the pencil is the companies trademark. It literally means "red ring". The original manufacturing company, based in Germany, changed the company name to "rotring" in the early stages of the company's life. The company is now part of Newell Rubbermaid and the pencils are made in Japan. To the best of my knowledge the quality of the German pencil has been upheld by the Japanese version. As far as interchangeability is concerned, I haven't a clue. If you know of anything different please write me and let me know.<br />
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The stats. The rotring rapid PRO is a solid, high end pencil worthy of the rotring name. It is made of metal, probably a combination of brass and steel. I'm certainly NOT going to take a carbide scribe to it to find out for sure, but most metal pencils have brass bodies as well as other parts made of brass while things like the pocket clip, lead sleeve and push button are made of steel. Generally the interior is a combination of metal (brass and steel) and plastic of some type. Such is the case with the rapid PRO. Don't disdain plastic in a high end pencil as plastic can dampen sound and it makes far less noise than metal when surfaces contact one another, thus making for a quitter pencil.<br />
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The rotring rapid PRO is a heavyweight weighing in at 24.5 grams. It's 144 mm with the sliding sleeve retracted and 148 mm long extended. That gives the rapid PRO a 4 mm lead sleeve. the diameter is 8.5 mm across the flats and has a balance point of 73 mm from the extended point. This means that the Rapid Pro's balance point is almost in the exact center of the pencil. This makes for a better writing experience. <br />
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The black satin color is probably the result of the brass being plated with a thin coating of Aluminum and then hard anodized. Brass itself cannot be anodized. Anodize is a process where Aluminum is oxidized. Anodize is applied in layers and is harder than the under lying Aluminum. During the process the anodize can be dyed or colored, thus a black pencil!<br />
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The push button on the rapid PRO is a bit unusual and there is no explanation, that I can read (I don't read Japanese) in the pamphlet that accompanies the pencil, in that the push button is a tube, not a cap! The top is open. What's up with that!? I don't see the purpose in the open top, but the metal is rolled down towards the inside so there is no sharp edge, but a nice smooth edge to press against. Under the push button is a tiny eraser (useless in my book, then any follower of this blog knows how I feel about such erasers). The eraser hides the fact that instead of a wide mouth for the reservoir there is a metal cap with a small hole in it so that the lead has to be delivered one-at-a-time! Much like the Mitsubishi Kuru Togas. Again, what's up with that!? If anybody knows the reasoning behind this, please let me know!<br />
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Now if you go pressing on the push button, and I know that you will, then you will get a surprise. The first depression lets down the hidden sliding sleeve (Ha! Told you there was a surprise!) along with a small amount of lead. A second depression releases enough lead to write/draw with. The mechanism is not loud, while not being silent either. Shall we say it's on the quiet side, but audible. The sliding sleeve is a true sliding sleeve, not just a hide-a-way sleeve. This means as you write, the lead wears away but when it reaches the sleeve the sleeve moves back up into the pencil allowing the lead to still make a mark. However this is more use when drawing with a straight edge than anything else for the pencil is held almost perpendicular to the paper when drafting or doing mechanical drawings.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 mm sliding sleeve<br />
Now You See Me, Now You Don't!</td></tr>
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The rotring rapid PRO breaks down into 4 major components. The grip/end cap/lead sleeve, the push button, the eraser (without a clean out rod) and the main body. The pocket clip is removable, but should one do so I am afraid that the finish would be scratched. To disassemble the pencil in order to remove a lead jam, simply remove the grip assembly, then using a suitable clean out rod, remove the jam and reassemble the pencil. No need to remove the push button and eraser to gain access to the clean out rod because there is none (did I mention that the pencil doesn't come with a clean out rod already?).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: Grip/End Cap/Lead Sleeve<br />
Bottom from left to right: Front Row, Push Button, Eraser. Back Row: The Main Body And Internal Works</td></tr>
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Now besides the obvious grudge I have against pencil makers no longer putting clean out rods in thin lead pencils I have one other complaint about the pencil But first a word from our sponsors... Please visit<a href="http://www.jetpens.com/" target="_blank"> jetpens.com</a> often and when you do you can mention my name, The Old Geezer! And the name of my blog, Pens and Pencils! It won't get you any discounts or anything but it might get and my blog some attention! (Just kidding,...). The second, and more importantly is the grip part of the grip assembly. The knurling is very fine and was intended to provide the end user with a good griping surface. But for me the knurling is almost to fine. Almost but not quite. It's not that the pencil slips in my hand when I use it, it's just that I prefer the feel of a courser knurling! To each his own. </div>
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However, there is one thing that I have discovered. With use the grooves tend to fill with exfoliated skin! This turns the black to gray! An"acid" brush, form a hardware store, with it's natural bristles shortened considerably, is good for cleaning this out of the grooves of the grip. A little bit of tap water used with the brush helps remove the dead skin and wash it away. The natural bristles are easy on the finish. NEVER use any type of metal brush to do this as this would ruin the pencils finish!</div>
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Bottom line. The rotring rapid Pro make a good writing pencil. it's well balanced, has some heft to it which helps keep in in the hand and in the correct writing position.. The grip issue aside the pencil is a keeper. It's a very well made pencil, made from quality materials with an attention to details. The pencil is also suited for mechanical drawing but I personally feel that the rotring rapid Pro is worth the money. One day I'll buy one in silver and I'll have a side by side comparison. </div>
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I hope that this review has been helpful, interesting, informative and that you, the reader, liked my since of humor. If you didn't, then by all means <u>don't</u> email me a bout it!</div>
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Many thanks to our friends at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a> for the pencil used in this review. Please visit them for some of the finest pens, pencils and stationary items that Japan makes. </div>
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The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-18688004403085587442014-01-09T05:30:00.000-05:002014-01-12T05:52:05.841-05:00The Faber Castell TK-Metal 903 0.3 mm Drafting PencilFaber Castell is a name that I am familiar with in that I grew up with the<br />
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brand. I mostly knew the company for it's erasers, especially the long white typewriter erasers with the blue plastic bristles on top. I used these to clean the contacts on battery cases and circuit board contacts. Sadly these are no longer available except on eBay and the like and were last made by Sanford Brands. The few that I have left are probably all I'll ever find. But I digress. Faber Castell has long been a name that meant quality, being made in Germany, as are and were some of the finest drafting pencils in the world. A visit to the Faber Castell web site reveals that there is only one the series of drafting pencils I am most familiar with, the ones that are dark green and gleaming bright metal, still made, the TK-Fine Varol L in 3.5mm. So the one that I have is no longer available, the TK metal 903, as are a host of other such pencils.<br />
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When I first got into buying and collecting drafting pencils I neglected buying the Faber Castells in favor of the Japanese made pencils. I guess I was thinking that the Faber Castells would be available for longer than they have been. Many of the vintage pencils are selling for $150.00 and up! I guess I had better get the TK-Fine Varlo L 3.5mm soon or I'm not going to get one! All the others are out of my reach, financially. <br />
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I am always reluctant to write something bad about a pencil seeing as I am just one lone man in a sea of writers, would be writers, artist and those who wish they could draw and the like, all who would have an opinion on the pencils that I review. You must remember that what I write, though I try to be as objective as possible, is always somewhat subjective. I've only trashed 2 mechanical pencils on this blog, and I believe that they deserved it! I write this in order to say this: I'm a little disappointed in my first Faber Castell drafting Pencil! Why, you ask? Well I'll get to that in a bit. Right now some stats!<br />
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The TK-Metal 903 is approximately 144 mm long, 9 mm in diameter at it's widest point and weighs 16.7 grams making it a medium weight in the drafting pencil arena. The balance point is approximately 70 mm from the tip of the pencil which gives it nearly perfect balance! Now for the first disappointment. The body of the pencil is not metal as the name would imply, but plastic! Now being plastic is not a crime by any means! Some high end pencils have plastic bodies. It's just that because of the name, TK-Metal 903, I expected an all metal pencil! <br />
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Putting that aside, the green plastic is an attractive color, a British Racing Green I'd call it, even though it's of German make. The body is round and smooth with the manufactures name and logo, the pencils designation and lead size being imprinted in a silver tone on the barrel below the chromed metal removable pocket clip. The push button and ring between it and the pocket clip are also metal as it the chromed ring and chromed grip and pencil tip. The band between the ring and grip is plastic.<br />
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The grip is the area of the second disappointment. Being metal does not assure that a grip will have grip, thought it usually does as it is often knurled and not bright chrome! One day mechanical pencil manufactures will learn that slick chrome grips, while they may look pretty, are not a good gripping surface! The TK Metal 903's grip is unique in that it has 18 narrow evenly spaced rings cut into it. It itself not a good gripping surface. The rings need to be wider and a little deeper to provide a better gripping surface. Between the narrow rings are a number of micro cut rings almost to fine to see with the naked eye. (A magnifying lens will reveal them). The idea is that the micro cut rings will provide a sort of micro prickly surface that will act as a good griping surface! If you have baby soft skin it might. but for the average person I do not feel that it does.<br />
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The take down. WARNING! The end of the pencil disassembles into 4 parts! None of then except the end cap/lead sleeve are attached in any way! To remove the tip in order to remove a lead jam for instance it is best to grasp the pencil body ABOVE the metal ring with one hand. Then with the other LOOSEN the end cap (it's the smooth bright part below the ringed grip) then STOP! Now grip the grip along with the rest of the pencil in the palm of the hand and continue to remove the end cap. The remaining 3 pieces are now very loose and should be carefully removed and stored in a safe place such as a small container. Once the lead jam has been taken care of reassemble the pencil in reverse order. However don't go looking for the lead clean out rod under the eraser as there is none. You'll have to provide your own. But removing the end cap/push button and eraser will allow you access to the cavernous lead reservoir.<br />
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The writing experience and the rest of the story. The pencil only needs 2 clicks to advance enough lead to write with. The clicks are smooth and not overly loud. The balance of the pencil is off set by the fact that I have to either hold the pencil above the long grip area or grip the pencil overly tight in order for my fingers not to slide down the grip. Over gripping cause my hand to tire easy, so I've never had the opportunity to use the TK-Metal 903 for extended periods.<br />
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My conclusion. Well, I am afraid that you, the reader, are on your own on this one. Because of the grip situation and the way the end components are assembled, I can not in all honesty recommend this pencil for the average user. It's a shame for the pencil has some fine qualities, but not enough, for me at least, to overcome the one major flaw, the lack of grip in the grip. If you do buy a Faber Castell TK-Metal 903 ( or any of the other sizes it comes in) or if you have one, please drop me an email, <a href="mailto:theoldgeezer@live.com">theoldgeezer@live.com</a> and let me know your experiences.<br />
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Bottom line is that they all can't be winners.<br />
The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-14282138045009743902013-10-15T20:15:00.003-04:002013-10-15T20:15:53.314-04:00We Have A winner!We have a winner of the JetPens and Pens and Pencils Giveaway! Congratulations to Jenny Mabee of Milton, MA for being the winner of a brand new Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A 0.3 mm drafting pencil! Jenny has been contacted by JetPens and will receive her new pencil directly from JetPens via snail mail! So from all of us here at Pens and Pencils, and I am sure form JetPens as well, congratulations Jenny on winning your new Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A 0.3 mm drafting pencil! We hope that you will enjoy using it for years to come!<br />
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Remember the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500 A, as well as all the Platinum Pro Use models in lead sizes 0.3 mm, 0.5 mm and 0.7 mm, are available from our friends at <a href="http://www.jetpens.com/" target="_blank">JetPens.</a>The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-71709717460760971912013-10-03T16:40:00.000-04:002013-10-03T16:42:05.792-04:00JetPens & Pens and Pencils Giveaway<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Geezer: Jet-Do and Jet-Da! What are you two pixies doing here!? Aren't you a long way from home?</div>
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Jet-Do: Hello, Geezer! We're here to help you give away a Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A 0.3 mm drafting pencil just like the one you reviewed recently!</div>
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Geezer: Get out! Really?</div>
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Jet-Da: Really, Geezer! We're going to give away a Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A to one of your readers! The Giveaway is only open to readers of your blog, no one else can enter!</div>
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Geezer: Cool! How does the Giveaway work?</div>
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Jet-Do: It's easy, Geezer. All your readers have to do is click on the link below and follow the instructions on signing up for the JetPens news letter. They have to sign up to receive the news letter in order to enter. All you need is a valid e-mail address to enter.</div>
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Geezer: That's great! How long do they have and how will they get their pencil if they win?</div>
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Jet-Da: The contest is open from Friday, October the 4th at 10:00 AM through Friday, October the 11th at noon when it will close!</div>
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Jet-Do: The winner will be picked at random and contacted by e-mail for a mailing address so a brand new pencil can be mailed to them directly from JetPens! And you get to announce the winner on your blog!</div>
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Geezer: Guys! That's just great! Wow! I'm stoked (eh, do they still say "stoked" any more?) And Let me guess, the "link" is like, right below me!?</div>
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<strong><span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://www.jetpens.com/Event?event_id=29705951453d7f9f" target="_blank">LINK</a></span></strong></div>
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Jet-Da: Oh, Geezer you're so clever.</div>
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Geezer: Thanks, Jet-Da. And thanks for the 2 of you stopping by and helping me set up this Giveaway and for giving away such a beautiful pencil to my readers!</div>
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So faithful readers here is your chance to win a brand new Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A 0.3 mm drafting pencil just like the one I reviewed recently (the previous post) directly from JetPens! Help spread the word about the Giveaway by telling all your friends to read my review of the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A 0.3 mm drafting pencil and then to enter the Giveaway! It's free and it's easy! "My the pen force be with you" (JetPens).</div>
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Jet-Do and Jet-Da are trade marks of and are the sole property of JetPens.com. Used here without permission (I sure hope they don't mind or I'm in deep do-do).</div>
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<br />The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-5651411601820038172013-09-23T04:47:00.000-04:002013-09-24T02:41:55.530-04:00Platinum Pro Use MSD 1500A<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The <a href="http://www.jetpens.com/Platinum-Pro-Use-II-03-Drafting-Pencil-0.3-mm/pd/1459" target="_blank">Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A</a> is the Pentacle of my Platinum Pro Use collection. With the gifting of this pencil I now own all 4 Platinum Pro Use Drafting pencils, in 0.3 mm. I have only blogged (so far) about the <a href="http://onelonemanspensandpencils.blogspot.com/search/label/Platinum" target="_blank">Platinum Pro Use MSD-1000A</a>. As I get back into the swing of things I will review the other 2, which are on the lower end of Platinum's line.<br />
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I was struck by the pencils odd hypodermicesk look it has about it. In that I mean that it has a rather bulbous grip that suddenly and sharply becomes the tip and lead sleeve! The gradual narrowing of the body at the pocket clip does nothing to belie this mental image! Neither does it's lack of stature! Yes my readers, the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A is a shorty! At 128 mm it falls shot of it's cousins stature of 143.3 mm! It is also larger in girth being 11 mm in diameter at the widest point on the grip. It's also heavier than the MSD-1000A, coming in a t21.9 grams compared to the MSD-1000A's mere 16.1 grams. The chubby pencil's balance point (from lead sleeve) is 62 mm making it 4 mm's top heavy, but you'd never know it! There! I've gotten the stats out of the way! Important as they may be, they are still stats and still boring (well, to some they're boring).<br />
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While being fat and stubby (honestly, it's the shortest drafting pencil in my collection) it is far from being ugly! In fact, I find the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A rather attractive. If you take a real good look at the MSD-1500A, I man an in depth look, then you see the true beauty of the design. First, like the other high end Platinum, the MSD-1000A this pencil has had quite a bit of thought put into it. It's form is really elegant and sensual! It's not only pleasing to the eye but to the touch as well. The anodized satin finish is high tech and a pleasure for the fingers and hand. Unlike many drafting pencils it has no rough edges or sharp corners. Nothing to cause an unpleasant sensation to the skin. I just keep running my fingers over the surface as I'm typing!<br />
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Despite the almost teflonest surface the MSD-1500A is surprisingly easy to hold mostly due to the design of the grip. It has 8 rings that are approximately 4 mm apart. The base of each ring (pointing downward) is larger than the top. This gives the appearance of trapezoidal rings stacked atop one another. The edges are nicely curved and for me the grip provides a surprising nice surface to hold onto! The slimming of the upper body at the pocket clip has a unique function in that the curve falls right at the web of my hand and helps nestle the pencil in my hand thus keeping it in place while I write. Due to it's light weight (it is made mostly of aluminum, not brass) and it's near center-of-pencil balance point the MSD-1500A is a pleasure to hold and to write or draw with.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Ua6RTXs3hQdbL5aufHLurLIzbsrkwQhjxO6YY4yr4ixDeUqTcQHymFrmJCCAIn3zyUkUe_-_VEHEn-40701Avq4aQo9MUVWI4Hzol5GkVxMe1hfY4N8mijym14edgdQUf81drYLfz1Y/s1600/Pro+Use+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="92" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Ua6RTXs3hQdbL5aufHLurLIzbsrkwQhjxO6YY4yr4ixDeUqTcQHymFrmJCCAIn3zyUkUe_-_VEHEn-40701Avq4aQo9MUVWI4Hzol5GkVxMe1hfY4N8mijym14edgdQUf81drYLfz1Y/s320/Pro+Use+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Something else that enhances the pleasure of writing with the MSD-1500A is the fact that the protruding lead has very little movement within the stainless steel lead sleeve. This helps give the pencil a more solid feel when in use. The pencils rock solid construction is another factor in giving the user such an in control feel when using the pencil. The tip body, grip, lead grade indicator ring, upper body, pocket clip retainer and push button are made of aluminum while the lead sleeve is made of stainless steel and the pocket clip is made of spring steel. The tolerances are such that the pencil fits together very well and all the parts seat solidly and stay that way. Dear readers, this is a very well constructed pencil. Impressed yet? I am!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m8VT0RzXwpcx0wSrLor1r_vya7aIecBm3oaJ07pz_Tvb88SzE2TwU5dw6WDlbLarmO3I6PHHleVdjgWAyez2erMOm4zL86-BMmMC8GKfEJb_wQ21fyJ8ivQChgGxqMepMhX4zXGtSnY/s1600/Pro+Use+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="92" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m8VT0RzXwpcx0wSrLor1r_vya7aIecBm3oaJ07pz_Tvb88SzE2TwU5dw6WDlbLarmO3I6PHHleVdjgWAyez2erMOm4zL86-BMmMC8GKfEJb_wQ21fyJ8ivQChgGxqMepMhX4zXGtSnY/s320/Pro+Use+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A breaks down into 8 separate components/sub assemblies. The are (A) the tip/lead sleeve, (B) the lead indicator ring, (C) the grip/clutch assembly/lead reservoir, (D) the main body sleeve, (E) the pocket clip, (F) the pocket clip retainer, (G) the eraser and (H) the push button. The tip/lead sleeve unscrews and the lead grade indicator slips off it. The push button is removed then the upper body sleeve can be unscrewed and removed. The pocket clip retainer can be unscrewed and the pocket clip removed and the eraser can be removed. In order to fill the lead reservoir simply remove the push button and the eraser. In order to clear a lead jam it is necessary to remove the tip and the lead grade indicator ring, which can easily be lost as it is a simple ring with indication notch. It is not threaded.<br />
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However, the MSD-1500A DOES NOT come with a clean out rod! This is one of my pet peeves and it, to me, is a mar on an otherwise excellent pencil. I'm also not a fan of the erasers that come with drafting pencils. Originally the first mechanical drafting pencils did not come with an eraser at all! However there is a solution to both problems. <a href="http://jetpens.com/">JetPens.com</a> sells <a href="http://www.jetpens.com/Platinum-Mechanical-Pencil-Eraser-Refill-Size-A1-Pack-of-3/pd/6814" target="_blank">erasers</a> for the MSD-1500A and they sell some thing unique in the world of drafting pencils. Pilot makes 3 different packets of 5 erasers for some of their pencils that also contain 2 stand alone clean out rods. One for 0.3 mm to 0.4 mm and one for 0.5 mm to 0.9mm lead sizes. The <a href="http://www.jetpens.com/Pilot-HERFS-10-Mechanical-Pencil-Eraser-Refill-Set-of-5/pd/3379" target="_blank">HERFS-10</a> set contains 5 erasers that will fit the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A as well as the 2 aforementioned clean out rods. This is a better buy in my opinion. For detailed instructions on how to clear a lead jam from the tip of a drafting pencil see the link <a href="http://onelonemanspensandpencils.blogspot.com/p/all-jammed-up.html" target="_blank">"All Jammed Up"</a> at the top left of this blog.<br />
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One feature of the MSD-1500A is it's uniquely designed and placed Lead Grade Indicator. The LGI is located on the tip of the pencil. The grades are impressed on the body of the tip and the open base of a triangular notch in the LGI ring is set to the lead grade being used. The LGI is not easily set with fingers such as mine while trying to screw the tip back on the pencil while holding the notch base on the lead grade in use. So what I ended up having to do is use a wooden toothpick as a sort of pry tool. By placing it in the "V" shaped notch in the LGI ring at an angle perpendicular to the pencil, I maneuvered the notch into position above the selected lead grade. To me this is a minor annoyance but it does detract from the pencils overall grade. But then again, how often does one change the grade of lead one uses?<br />
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Let's see, have I missed anything? Oh yeah! It takes only 2 pushes of the button to advance enough lead to write/draw with which is nice. The mechanism is a little noisy and has a definite metallic sound. The lead reservoir is cavernous but like most mechanical pencils of it's type the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500Afeeds best with a half dozen pieces of lead or fewer. The pencil is available in one color/finish, satin Aluminum and 3 lead sizes, 0.3 mm, 0.5 mm and 0.7 mm. It and all the linked items in this review are available from out friends at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">JetPens.com.</a><br />
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Over all I am impressed with the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500A. It is a unique, good looking design, attractively finished, well designed and constructed. The 2 issues I have with the pencil are minor and do not detract from the pencils over all appeal. In fact, I believe that the pencil would make a fine addition to any collection of fine mechanical/drafting pencils. It would also be an excellent choice as a writing/drawing instrument. So if you are in the market for a high end, but not terribly expensive mechanical/drafting pencil then you should consider the Platinum Pro Use MSD-1500 series of pencils. Thanks for reading.The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-35931465606011406652013-02-18T23:15:00.002-05:002014-08-06T22:15:05.797-04:00Sometimes...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Recently I did a review of the <a href="http://onelonemanspensandpencils.blogspot.com/2012/11/pilot-hi-tec-c-coleto-lumio-4-multi-pen.html" target="_blank">Hi-Tec-C Coleto Lumio 4 Multi pen</a>. One of the inserts that I put in mine was a 0.3 mm pencil. Avid readers of this blog are well aware of my fondness for 0.3 mm drafting pencils, so I was stoked to have a 0.3 mm pencil in a multi pen. My write up was rather glowing, and perhaps a bit premature! As you can see it proved to be a bit fragile! The pencil refused to advance lead when I tried to use it the other day so I removed it from the Coleto body to see if I could find the problem. my investigation proved fatal for the poor fragile pencil. It broke at the swivel point where the plastic push button meets the metal body.<br />
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Now as to why the pencil stopped working I'm not 100% sure, but my guess is static electricity! 0.3 mm pencils often have this problem, probably due to the fact that the lead is so small in diameter that there is not enough weight to break the lead free of the adjoining pieces. It could be any number of problems, but the fact is I have had quite a few 0.3 mm pencils fail to feed over the years and I have had to tear them down and clean them out before they will feed again. I guess it's the nature of the beast.<br />
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I wrote to jetpens.com to inform them of the breakage and to say that I should have bought a 0.5 mm pencil instead, believing them to be less susceptible to feeding problems. Lo and Behold, I received and email informing me that I was being sent, free of charge a 0.5 mm insert as a replacement for the broken 0.3 mm insert! Wow! That was unexpected! But I guess I really should have expected something like that to happen considering my past dealings with JetPens.<br />
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Sometimes it's not about the sales, or the product being sold, sometimes it's all about the service after the sale. Sometimes it's all about the Customer Service. If JetPens is about nothing else it's about customer service! Not lip service, but real, honest, "the customer is always right" Customer Service! I have dealt with all kinds of customer service personal with all kinds of companies, both small and giant, both via phone and email but I can count on one hand how many of them have been as customer oriented as the people at JetPens! Everyone I have dealt with at JetPens, from employee to co-owner has treated me with the utmost kindness and respect! They treat me as if I matter to them, and I believe that I do, as all their customers do to them, I'm sure!<br />
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It's not that I received a freebie from JetPens (which is a heck of a lot more than I've often got from companies 10 to 1000 times their fiscal size), instead it's about how I was treated, how I am genuinely thought of as an important customer to JetPens, even though I am sure I am not one of their most prolific customers! But I am treated as one! As if I buy high ticket items in quantity all the time! It's the type of customer service lots of companies reserve for such "important" clients! But JetPens gives out such customer service to each and every customer they have!<br />
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Sometimes it's not about what you buy, it's about who you buy it from! Sometimes it's all about the people behind the counter, or in this case across cyberspace, that matter. If all Customer Services personnel across the world were like the Customer Service personnel at JetPens then this would be a much nicer world. So guys and gals at JetPens, take a bow, you've earned it!<br />
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Attention Readers. I would very much like to read about your experiences with JetPens customer service. So please leave a comment or drop me an email about your experience with JetPens customer service. I'll pass along the comments I get to JetPen.<br />
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Please check out all the latest items JetPens has to offer by visiting <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>.<br />
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<br />The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-4918609543004747112013-02-03T17:14:00.001-05:002013-02-03T17:14:44.908-05:00Pacific Arc DP-03 0.3 mm Drafting Pencil<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The regular readers of my blog know that I have a fondness for 0.3 mm drafting pencils. I have a particularly keenness for the Pentel 0.3 mm P203, which some years back I discovered was discontinued... "Discontinue! No discontinue, Stephenie!". Pardon my "Short Circuit" parody, bit I just couldn't help it!... Well I could help it, I just didn't! When I inquired about why the response from Pentel was that it was being discontinued due to a lack of sales! What? A lack of sales? I did not believe it then and I do not believe it now! The pencil sold for about $4.00back then, now they are $10.00, when you can find them! As far as I am concerned Pentel made one of the biggest mistakes the company has ever made when they discontinued the P203! The P200 series pencils have been one of the most copied and cloned and modified mechanical pencils in history! Case in point the Pacific Arc DP-03, 0.3 mm Mechanical Pencil.<br />
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When I saw the pencil I was intrigued. A P203 clone or copy (clone - all parts are interchangeable with a Pentel P200 series pencil. Copy - they are not all interchangeable, though some might). The DP-03 0.3 mm mechanical is a copy. I discovered this when I disassembled the pencil, along with a P203 and tried to interchange some of the parts! The tips, erasers and push buttons exchange but the non-tapered Pentel mechanism would not fit into the Pacific Arc body, though the Pacific Arc mechanism did fit the Pentel body. The parts look similar but there are subtle differences such as the shape of the metal tip.<br />
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The 2 pencils are very close in size and balance, but the Pentel is slightly heavier at 11 grams verses 9 grams for the Pacific Arc. The feel of the Pacific Arc is also different due to the slight difference and slightly more forward balance. It also sounds less solid, more clunky when the push button is used to advance lead. Lockup of the lead is as solid as with any such pencil but there were 2 things I didn't like about the Pacific Arc DP-03. One is that a single 'click' does not quite advance enough lead to write with, for me any way, but a second advances too much! With the Pentel the advancements are in very small increments which means it takes at least 3 'clicks' to advance enough lead to write with.<br />
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The second is that the the lead protruding from the tip of the Pacific Arc pencil has considerable lead shake. That means that the interior of the lead sleeve is slightly over sized inside the tube. Thus the lead does not fight as tightly in the tube as does the Pentel! This, along with the over extended lead meant that there was considerable lead breakage when I used the pencil. Now I was using the Pacific Arc lead at the time, so I replaced it with Pentel lead and got about the same amount of breakage! The Pacific Arc lead is a high polymer and comes 24 pieces per tube. 2 tubes per package, for only $2.00 as of Saturday, February 1, 2011, from Hobby Lobby. While I like the price what I don't like is that the pour spout is recessed into the mouth of the cap so it has to be removed by hand and inserted into the lead reservoir. No direct pouring of lead into the lead reservoir from the container!<br />
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I had high hopes for the Pacific Arc DP-03. I was hoping that I had found a low cost ($3) alternative to the Pentel P203. While I did find a bargain in the lead, the pencil is another matter. Aside from the lead breakage/enlarged lead sleeve the product seems to be more cheaply made than I thought! As I was disassembling the pencil for photographic reasons, the lead retainer fell out of the tip! This is never good! Now I have some experience replacing lead retainers so I tried to replace it. Dang if I somehow didn't loose it! I don't know how, but when I went to see if it was in the tip, it wasn't!<br />
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For most people this would be a lost cause and no matter how little or how much (I've had a similar problem with an $80.00 pencil) the pencil cost, it would now be rendered useless. Without a lead retainer the lead falls straight through the pencil when you try and advance the lead! But for me, it proved a challenge, nothing more. After some searching I found a piece of small gage wire where the sheath was an adequate substitute. With some work I got the pencil to function properly once more. Hooray for me!<br />
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But the bottom line is, while I really like the shape and feel of the pencil, I can not and do not recommend the pencil for any reason. Yeah, it's only $3.00, but one can do better by buying a different style pencil from <a href="http://jetpens.com/">jetpens.com</a>. Or if you must have a Pentel P203, than $10.00 on the net. So my advice is to avoid the Pacific Arc DP-03 0.3 mm pencil, at least for now. However the lead is another story. It seems of good quality and the price is unbeatable.The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-70225627085430092152013-01-29T23:00:00.000-05:002013-01-29T23:00:51.051-05:00Pilot S20, Elegance In Wood<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The first experience that I had with the <a href="http://onelonemanspensandpencils.blogspot.com/2009/05/pilot-s10-03-mm-drafting-pencil.html" target="_blank">Pilot S series </a>was a pleasant surprise! I really enjoyed my experience with the Pilot S10. I liked it so much that I ended up buying an S3 and an S5 in 0.3 mm and an S3 in 0.4 mm. But circumstances would not allow me to buy an S20. But recently I was gifted an S20, the only one in the series made of wood. There is no material more naturally elegant than wood. And the Pilot S20 is nothing if not elegant! </div>
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The other pencils in the series are made of plastic with either a plastic grip (S3), rubber grip (S5), or a metal grip (S10) and have a straight grip where the grip of the S20 is nicely curved near the tip. The over all look of the shape of the pencil adds to it's elegance. With the satin finish metal components the dark wood with it's satin finish gives the S20 a very sleek and elegant appearance.</div>
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But appearances alone do not make the pilot S20 such an elegant pencil. The feel of the pencil is also elegant. The shape along with the satin finish allows for a good grip and a good feel. Writing with the S20 is a pleasant experience in part due to it's satiny smooth finish and shape, but the balance point is approximately 65 mm from the tip, just 6 mm shy from center. This combination for me makes for a nice writing experience. The pencil is not hard to hold and the wood feels so good in my fingers.</div>
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But enough gushing over the appearance and feel of elegant wood, let's get down to some stats. Over all the S20 is approximately 146 mm long and 11 mm in diameter at it's widest. it weighs 17.5 grams making it a semi heavyweight. But I like a weighty pencil, but then again I like a lightweight pencil as well. Come to think of it, I like drafting pencils of all kinds and weights. Each delivers it's own experience.</div>
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Unlike the rest of the series, with the exception of the S3, the S20 breaks down into only 5 major components, the grip/body along with the metal pocket clip, the tip/end cap, the eraser with clean out rod and the lead indicator/push button. I am sure that the pencil can be broken down further, but probably at the cost of breaking the pencil. Besides there is no need to break the pencil down further in order to clear a lead jam.</div>
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The S20 is a ratcheting/clutch pencil which takes just two presses of the push button to advance enough to write with. The mechanism is not loud enough to be a bother and the the mechanism is tight. The lead reservoir is cavernous enough to hold a tube of lead or more but works best with a tube or less. To change the lead grade in the lead grade indicator window the push button must be removed so the tube can be held as the top is turned to the desired lead grade. The pocket clip is removable but I would never do so for fear of damaging the wood. </div>
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Weather you use the S20 at home or at the office, it will defiantly make a statement. It's design, It's juxtaposition of wood and bright metal, both satin finish make the S20 the most elegant of the Pilot S series drafting pencils. The entire series is available from our friends at <a href="http://jetpens.com/">JetPens.com</a>.</div>
The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-68173406820758678742013-01-26T07:09:00.000-05:002013-01-26T07:09:19.274-05:00Pentel Graph PG2 0.2mm Drafting Pencil<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWY4wzkX2rcXc6wlDRuoUhsJ8ZKvpvujs3kz-46YNhO_fz5E6MsJEOnnohK_Wkh9ZrWMKvThY-FIMnrGn8JIlDyqBf3xsYp_YUN8rIbT9NSXpW9SRI_ss8bXMh0JiRjmIuqO-BK-Kr7rw/s1600/PG2_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="72" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWY4wzkX2rcXc6wlDRuoUhsJ8ZKvpvujs3kz-46YNhO_fz5E6MsJEOnnohK_Wkh9ZrWMKvThY-FIMnrGn8JIlDyqBf3xsYp_YUN8rIbT9NSXpW9SRI_ss8bXMh0JiRjmIuqO-BK-Kr7rw/s400/PG2_1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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When is small too small? I am a big fan of 0.3 mm drafting pencils and I own a few! I like the very thin line that the lead produces, albeit at a cost - lead breakage! So in order to use a 03. mm pencil I have had to train myself to write with a light hand. If, like now, I use some other lead size, like a 0.5 mm lead sized pencil, such as the Kuru Toga Rouletta, then I have to retrain my self when I go back to a 0.3 mm lead size! I like the Kuru Toga because I can use a pencil with the stronger 0.5 mm lead size yet get a near 0.3 mm line. Lately I have been using a 0.3 mm Kuru Toga because it produces a sum 0.3 mm line! But lead breakage is still a problem.<br />
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Then comes the Pentel Graph PG2 0.2 mm Drafting Pencil. No, it's not a typo! Not 2 mm but 0.2 mm! Now that's a thin line (for a pencil)! The pencils has been around for a while, since the late 70's, but I didn't notice it until a few years ago. With my propensity for thin line lead pencils had I known of it's existence back then, I would have had several by now! Or would!?<br />
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The lead grade indicator has 2 readings, HB and B and that's all the lead grades the 0.2 mm currently comes in! Oddly enough the lead is also made by Pentel. The Pentel Graph PG2 may be the only 0.2mm pencil made! A quick search of the Internet provided some proof of my claim as the only 0.2 mm pencil that came up was indeed the Pentel Garph PG2! And there may be good reason for this!<br />
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But before I get into this lets dive into some stats! Now who doesn't like to read about the stats of a fine drafting pencil (not a word out of you, Tommy Turquoise)? All the mumblers tossed out at this point have been rounded to the nearest whole digit. The PG2 is approximately 146 mm long making it of average length. it is approximately 8 mm in diameter making it a slim pencil. It's balance point is approximately 68 mm from the tip making it a little top heavy but you'd hardly notice and it weighs approximately 10 grams making it a feather weight! It almost feels like there is nothing in my hand!<br />
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The grip area of the pencil is a set of concentric close set rings approximately 14 mm long. They are smooth to the touch, probably rounded instead of square, providing a good non-slip grip with out a sharp bite. The chromed metal pocket grip appear to be of the same type if not the same one used on the P200 series Pentel drafting pencils. The good grip area along with the light weight and good balance would make the PG2 easy to control and fatigue free, except for one fact. More on that later.<br />
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The construction of the PG2 is as what would be expected from Pentel, a leader in the world of fine and affordable drafting pencils. It's solid, well made and easily torn down. The body is plastic, along with the lead reservoir retainer/ lead grade indicator body and clean out rod handle. The pocket clip, tip of the pencil, entire clutch and lead reservoir assembly and the but stock are metal.<br />
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The pencil can be torn down into 7 major pieces/ submersibles. The body and removable pocket clip, the tip, the clutch/reservoir assembly, the clutch/reservoir retainer/lead indicator body, the lead indicator window, the clean out rod and holder/push button assembly and the tail stock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrY6cj2qeEA-teFEGj5Xi7v8DUlp2Wli7ITcLZ-O4K1rYMj87kWS7bjtXSS6zJmi64OJCYu8LhUYNcUrAVYLU8pyyIgIFMaz4d_yZXG7XWiJbTEa_BIC44HhUAFkdE9UaBQ2kMzGU4eYU/s1600/PG2_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrY6cj2qeEA-teFEGj5Xi7v8DUlp2Wli7ITcLZ-O4K1rYMj87kWS7bjtXSS6zJmi64OJCYu8LhUYNcUrAVYLU8pyyIgIFMaz4d_yZXG7XWiJbTEa_BIC44HhUAFkdE9UaBQ2kMzGU4eYU/s400/PG2_4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To disassemble the PG2 into it's major components first unscrew the tip, which screws to the clutch assembly. Unscrew the tail stock, lead grade indicator window and the clutch/reservoir retainer then pull the clutch/reservoir free from the pencil then pull the clean-out-rod holder/push button free. Reassembly is just the opposite. due to the potential of losing an important part of the pencil, I recommend the average user do not break down the PG2 this far. In order to clear a led jam all you have to do is remove the tip, tail stock and clean out rod/push button assembly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3UCoOnGpHMdFJ0otftQy6F5uN24Py6jMuprTJJoZGg7T4VdoC8f8qcveNs67aM9UMLhMdmvfN7Ng9Z5a5dkFQWv_5FXKwT6ZCykk4NWBnPZOI4zOtwQzsQj7yUYU2MIQlwWEuDnqyNw/s1600/tips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3UCoOnGpHMdFJ0otftQy6F5uN24Py6jMuprTJJoZGg7T4VdoC8f8qcveNs67aM9UMLhMdmvfN7Ng9Z5a5dkFQWv_5FXKwT6ZCykk4NWBnPZOI4zOtwQzsQj7yUYU2MIQlwWEuDnqyNw/s320/tips.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The PG2 is a sliding sleeve retracts with the lead as it is used up, but only about 1/2 the distance to the base of the tip. In my humble opinion the pencil would have been better if the sliding sleeve would have retracted all the way to the tip! This would have given the pencil a little more versatility.<br />
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Now at the beginning of this review I ask the question, "When is small too small?" The answer to that question, in this bloggerss mind, is when small become impracticable. To me a 0.2 mm lead size is impracticable, which is maybe why there is only one pencil made in that lead size. An extremely light hand must be used in conjunction with a slow, fluid writing style in order to prevent lead breakage. But a light hand, even with HB lead, produces a light line. This lightness combined with sheer 0.2 mm line width makes the writing/drawing produced with such a fine width extremely hard to discern by many people. Even with the sliding sleeve the instrument is impracticable because the tip of the lead sleeve contacting the paper scratches and drags and one day will wear out.<br />
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While I do not recommend this pencil to anyone with out who does not have the lightest of hands and the keenest eyesight, does not mean that I don't like the pencil! I do like it. I like it's looks, light weight, balance, etc. I just don't like using it. A softer lead, like grade 'B' would be more practical, offering a dark line with less lead breakage.<br />
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Bottom line, for all practical purposes the Pentel PG2 is not for every one and certainly not for every day use. It even has limited use as a drafting pencil. It is however an elegant and beautiful pencil and it looks good in my pencil case.The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-19405454812642915612012-11-06T00:23:00.000-05:002012-11-06T00:24:43.675-05:00Pilot Hi-Tec-C Coleto Lumio 4 Multi-Pen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5_93OmPPPxctPPKZ2D8QVT_j0fswL5YX1JthkDWO2KCimrWBWb49d0eho92eg2px3-hMs8YORqzOjBMN-FQ0gquxoTmFUPygTSOuZ8Fhy6SLWvfYwdOl1i6_K2vzb7idk-NX-XmGqWq8/s1600/c1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5_93OmPPPxctPPKZ2D8QVT_j0fswL5YX1JthkDWO2KCimrWBWb49d0eho92eg2px3-hMs8YORqzOjBMN-FQ0gquxoTmFUPygTSOuZ8Fhy6SLWvfYwdOl1i6_K2vzb7idk-NX-XmGqWq8/s400/c1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I have never been a fan of multi-pens. Mainly because of the early ones like the Bic 4 color pens. They were always ball points and in four colors, red, blue, green and black! And the slimmer 2 color pens that came in either red and black or blue and red, again in all point. Not a big fan of ball point pens either. Refills, if the pen was refillable, were hard to find, expensive and the reservoir was small! But over the years things have changed. Now there are all kinds of refillable multi-pens! Some are still ball-point pens, but even so many of these come with a built in mechanical pencil! The best are the ones that are 3 to 4 pen/pencil multi pens that are sold empty. The user them customizes their own multi-pen with a wide variety of refills, from ball point to gel to mechanical pencil. Some can even be fitted with a stylus! These multi-pens are a far cry from the earlier ones and can be custom fitted to suit the need of the user!<br />
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One of the very best of these is the very versatile Pilot Hi-Tec-C Coleto Lumio 4 (now that's a mouth full)! This pen comes as a pen body with nothing in it! A blank slate ready to be filled with the users desired components! The components are each sold separately. The body comes in Black, Metallic Blue, Metallic Pink, Silver, Blue, Gray, Pink, soft Green and White as sold by <a href="http://jetpen.com/">JetPen.com</a>. Mine is in silver. The Hi-Tec-C gel pen refills come in 0.3 mm, 0.4 mm & 0.5 mm sizes in 15 different colors! The mechanical pencil refill comes in 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm. There is also an eraser component and a stylus component! WOW! That's a lot of different refills! Choices, choices, choices!<br />
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I ended up choosing the 0.3 mm mechanical pencil (a no-brainer) and a black gel pen in all 3 sizes! Sweet! I'm happy with my choices as I do use gel pens often. And 0.3 mm is my favorite lead size. I carry with me, in a pocket protector, a 0.5 mm drafting pencil, a uni Signo 207 Micro, a Pilot 0.38 mm G2, a stick eraser, a retractable EF Sharpie and an X-Acto style hobby knife. In a second pocket protector I carry a small top ring note book. My lovely wife calls them my "Geek Gear". Cute. But at one time or another while out and about, I've had need of every item in the pouches! What I am considering doing is to replace the 2 gel pens and the pencil with the Coleto Lumio 4! I like it that much! But to be perfectly honest, if I had not been gifted the body, I probably never would have bought one and the refills to fill it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScXq0fqPq14GdjGKGmxPp1Ao8nvhw2wHXtaj0D6WilKda_bR_lkNW8ZgWKwjH_GgIpJqb6w1CFhy_vr6SCwy7LqQSPZL7i6Vrbh7WMm0zJE_V8aqd1i3fKUGXdDMLW085-1dZQjEaojw/s1600/c7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScXq0fqPq14GdjGKGmxPp1Ao8nvhw2wHXtaj0D6WilKda_bR_lkNW8ZgWKwjH_GgIpJqb6w1CFhy_vr6SCwy7LqQSPZL7i6Vrbh7WMm0zJE_V8aqd1i3fKUGXdDMLW085-1dZQjEaojw/s320/c7.jpg" width="272" /></a></div>
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Filling the Coleto is easy as popin' the top!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vBjSInsrrN6sTtCmhs-u4xhE81bnXvR_c3qnuaqdbpKn-cDO17S8F443qQ62mXLhy80CDKeQR9Yy0WROoSFXxm_NO9mb1E_RJ9gx9RsB9LqZl8f9g0E2-cAzJhcA1pjLCR1_BML52FY/s1600/c8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vBjSInsrrN6sTtCmhs-u4xhE81bnXvR_c3qnuaqdbpKn-cDO17S8F443qQ62mXLhy80CDKeQR9Yy0WROoSFXxm_NO9mb1E_RJ9gx9RsB9LqZl8f9g0E2-cAzJhcA1pjLCR1_BML52FY/s320/c8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sliding in the refill, making sure all the grooves and tabs align (they practically thread themselves and lock in with a noticeable feel)!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8UAs68qUFrDWz1FNM9hmNphJpBsYRPNMxwsv5CFol-Nik4euJfqWSWYcZXLK61bL62o-fYhtSq1UOuvqyYoQF6biuFcqmu5ykSa9KYVMRpksKkEkGMt9No0_sQL68Qk_vYoPI-fm2Muk/s1600/c10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8UAs68qUFrDWz1FNM9hmNphJpBsYRPNMxwsv5CFol-Nik4euJfqWSWYcZXLK61bL62o-fYhtSq1UOuvqyYoQF6biuFcqmu5ykSa9KYVMRpksKkEkGMt9No0_sQL68Qk_vYoPI-fm2Muk/s320/c10.jpg" width="295" /></a></div>
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Then closing the top! It closes with a snap! The Pilot Hi-Tec-C Coleto Lumio 4 is now ready for use, eh almost! Before you insert the pencil component into the pencil you should put a few pieces of lead into the reservoir. This is easily done as the tip separates from the reservoir easily where the plastic part of the tip connects to the metal reservoir. Add a few pieces of lead to the reservoir then reassemble the component. NOW insert it into the body...<br />
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Using the Coleto is as simple as any other multi-pen only smoother. The components go down with a smooth, easy motion using very little pressure because the springs in the pen are light but strong enough to do the job. Releasing the locked down component is equally as light and easy! As far as the feel of the pen components goes, they feel like any other Hi-Tec-C gel pen of the size chosen. Same goes for the 0.3mm pencil. The tips of the pencils and pens look very similar. This means the pencil's lead sleeve is short making it definitely a mechanical pencil component, not a drafting pencil component. So long as excess lead is not extended and excess pressure is not applied then the pencil writes fine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFKmw_wzB3G4ORYNYT1uB8ATIbHm1BXDHcPBUOSOwKBGFTYZZTe2krXFY0TSJVFxs8AKtmwTkyX5nZTx1NiT9AfW-cHiAk74p2NdN2TbIqQZhINktj2uvk3LRm6hA8pVzWND8Dv9ryUg/s1600/c5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFKmw_wzB3G4ORYNYT1uB8ATIbHm1BXDHcPBUOSOwKBGFTYZZTe2krXFY0TSJVFxs8AKtmwTkyX5nZTx1NiT9AfW-cHiAk74p2NdN2TbIqQZhINktj2uvk3LRm6hA8pVzWND8Dv9ryUg/s320/c5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pencil tip</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FK0j9N7kPfUC9Kv9wbglryQAoxbFRqLoSUywNYYWDyq2MiHtib_icxgjnt9lVkSgRnKkiqHajUpOWg4RAlOQHQMT41adaNSmivz4t9p_lfD7TL-P6pObaDJWglNxTPm8k8tmVREvnAs/s1600/c11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FK0j9N7kPfUC9Kv9wbglryQAoxbFRqLoSUywNYYWDyq2MiHtib_icxgjnt9lVkSgRnKkiqHajUpOWg4RAlOQHQMT41adaNSmivz4t9p_lfD7TL-P6pObaDJWglNxTPm8k8tmVREvnAs/s320/c11.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pen tip</td></tr>
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Now I guess you blog readers want me to give you some stats! Well I'm not going to do it! Nope, not this time! Ain't gonna do it! Well, OK! You talked me into it... Or was that just the voices in my head...? Anyway, the Coleto Lumio 4 is a lightweight weighing only15.7 grams filled as I have it. Different components are going to change the weight to some degree. The over all length with the components detracted is 142 mm making it of average length. The upper body diameter is 12.3 mm and the diameter of the grip is 11.4 mm. The balance point is approximately 72 mm from the tip of the pen body. This makes the pen nearly perfectly balanced at the pens center. The pen body is plastic with a metal pocket clip. The body separates from the grip so the components can be accessed without excessive wear and tear on the pens cap. The texture of the finish on the plastic is excellent! Despite there being no roughness to the surface the surface provides an excellent gripping surface! I have no problem holding onto the pen!<br />
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Bottom line... Like I stated earlier, I would probably never have bought a Pilot Hi-Tec-C Coleto Lumio 4 Multi-pen if it had not been for the gift of the body. I like the pen so much I am now considering buying another one, maybe in blue, and filling it with both pencil components, the eraser component and the stylus component! I'll certainly review it if I do! So, if you are in the market for a good, customizable, multi-pen then I don't think you could go wrong by purchasing a Pilot Hi-Tec-C Coleto Lumio 4 from <a href="http://jetpens.com/">JetPens.com</a>.<br />
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The Old Geezer<br />
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<br />The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-87032055928826786682012-10-27T20:47:00.002-04:002012-11-01T07:12:41.577-04:00Breast Cancer Awareness Month Giveaway<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKc5H7An7jXU3a_DqLeJRXoxbVO7sdg7H00WIrUp4byL8zGqNw3NVoVm-gAG4A0kddBB819ar9OEhQo94s3adUvSUkrkQzMcFXyQy6kwlMeidKdEKSSk46azSG8o3M5Xu7JI3MxXh8mro/s400/219334348.jpg" width="145" /></div>
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October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month and since my lovely wife is a survivor of breast cancer I wanted to give away these special uni Signo Pink Ribbon gel pens. I wanted to do this earlier in the month to help promote Breast Cancer Awareness, but I could not find the pens until now. So better late than never!</div>
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All you have to do to win these pens is to send me an email with Breast Cancer Awarness Month in the subject line and include your name of on-line handle. Please, one entry per person, please!</div>
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The Giveaway will lastuntil midnight the 31st of October. The winner will be chosen by the Randon Integer Generator. at the end of the blog.</div>
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You can also enter my other giveaway, the "October Giveaway".</div>
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Enter now before it's too, late!</div>
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Thanks to all who entered, but the Giveaway is now CLOSED.</div>
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<br />The Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200978858695986279.post-17537084186912116412012-10-26T18:07:00.000-04:002012-11-06T00:27:02.093-05:00October Giveaway<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMKs6RltmGLzRrvxkk2Qhyphenhyphenqw88ttKuP5tCa0CtxvC1PuGYxIFyTIeT7jIOrwjjYObf38As_p47oxwhwpPJVWSy4mqvWc3CGzKaWZpNdlAn8TdJ1nEP-JWzLDYS-o_x8MLRjaQ3flMHWaQ/s1600/Uni+a-gel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMKs6RltmGLzRrvxkk2Qhyphenhyphenqw88ttKuP5tCa0CtxvC1PuGYxIFyTIeT7jIOrwjjYObf38As_p47oxwhwpPJVWSy4mqvWc3CGzKaWZpNdlAn8TdJ1nEP-JWzLDYS-o_x8MLRjaQ3flMHWaQ/s400/Uni+a-gel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I know it's late in the month for a giveaway, but better late than never, right?... Right?... Brother, tough crowd. Anyway this month up for grabs is a Mitsubishi uni a-gel HD 0.5mm mechanical pencil. Get this, not only does it have a squishy gel grip that some people love, it's a shaker! That's right, blog fans! Just shake it to extend the lead! Or just used the push button! Either way, lead gets extended! But there's more! To prevent lead from being extended accidentally while the pencil is getting jostled, (jostled, does anyone use words like jostled anymore?) around it has a catch. Literally, there's a catch! By pressing the push button all the way down until an audible "click" is heard the mechanism is rendered inoperable! This helps prevent the user from getting stuck with a length of graphite! It also helps prevent lead loss by preventing lead from being accidentally extended then broken.<br />
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Anyway, it's a nice looking pencil with a blur gel grip, chrome tip and collar between body and grip, chrome & plastic pocket clip, blue transparent collar around the push button, chrome push button and argent (graphite gray) body with silver lettering! It's new, never used and it's up for grabs!<br />
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All you have to do to have a chance of winning this squishy grip pencil is send me an email, <a href="mailto:theoldgeezer@live.com">theoldgeezer@live.com</a>. telling me why you like squishy grip pencils! Because I can't stand them and can not fathom why anybody would! So enlighten me, please! Oh, in the subject line of the email put October Giveaway. That way I'll spot it and keep it! Please only one entry per person per email addy! That's all there is to it! Entries will be accepted until midnight on Oct. 31. After midnight I'll use the Random Integer Generator at the bottom of the page to select a winner. Entries will be assigned a number from 1 to whatever in order in which they are received.<br />
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So, thanks for reading my humble blog.<br />
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Oops! Is my face red! I forgot to publish the Giveaway soon enough! So I'm extending the deadline until Monday, November 5th at midnight! Sorry, blog fans! Even the Old Geezer makes a mistake every now and then... Don't you say a word, Tommy Turquoise! <br />
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Pleas, no more entries as the giveaway is now closed. Thank you for reading my blog.<br />
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The Old GeezerThe Old Geezerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15852072254280348354noreply@blogger.com1